The heads all used the same rocker box, save for possibly a bit of relief machined for the head bolts.
The later model bottom spring plate had tangs spot welded in an attempt to stop the hairpin spring 'fidgeting' and wearing the plate. Didn't make much difference.
Hairpins are a nuisance if they take a 'set' because there is just no room in there for distortion.
You could inquire if James Holland still has a coil spring conversion kit to fit the original valves ... keeps things cheap & simple.
Cheers,
Rob
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- Location: VICTORIA AUSTRALIA
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Hi Les,
The compy valve springs have one less turn and heavier wire for greater spring constant.
They also have to cope with higher lift which adds to the strain.
You could give James a call. If he has any, it is a lot easier than having to install BSA Goldstar valves, springs & keepers (and new guides ?).
Alternatively, Steve Surbey may have new or good used springs.
Cheers,
Rob
The compy valve springs have one less turn and heavier wire for greater spring constant.
They also have to cope with higher lift which adds to the strain.
You could give James a call. If he has any, it is a lot easier than having to install BSA Goldstar valves, springs & keepers (and new guides ?).
Alternatively, Steve Surbey may have new or good used springs.
Cheers,
Rob
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- Posts: 40
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 11:20 pm
- Location: VICTORIA AUSTRALIA
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I've always seen and also installed the tangs at the open end since they are supposed to stop the ends fidgeting and fretting the bottom spring plate.
They didn't make any difference and you could break off the tangs if you don't mind modifying what are in fact very hard parts to find these days.
I am more worried that you may be using distorted springs on a high lift & high revving engine.
Another reason I don't like hairpins is that if one breaks, the collar tries to tilt to one side loaded by the other spring and its only a matter of time before a valve drops in a stressed engine.
At least if one coil breaks the collar stays on symemetrically and you only find out there is a problem if valve float bends a valve.
I have only just finished fixing up a battered G85CS head I bought from Frank Kuyl a few years ago that had something substantial hammered around the chamber. Much welding, two new seats etc. It was more like making a sculpture.
Cheers,
Rob
They didn't make any difference and you could break off the tangs if you don't mind modifying what are in fact very hard parts to find these days.
I am more worried that you may be using distorted springs on a high lift & high revving engine.
Another reason I don't like hairpins is that if one breaks, the collar tries to tilt to one side loaded by the other spring and its only a matter of time before a valve drops in a stressed engine.
At least if one coil breaks the collar stays on symemetrically and you only find out there is a problem if valve float bends a valve.
I have only just finished fixing up a battered G85CS head I bought from Frank Kuyl a few years ago that had something substantial hammered around the chamber. Much welding, two new seats etc. It was more like making a sculpture.
Cheers,
Rob
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- Joined: Sat Aug 15, 2009 12:52 pm
- Location: QUEENSLAND AUSTRALIA
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Hi all, is that set from RM suitable for a 1952 G80 alloy head? Is it true that the hairpin spring set-up does not 'turn' the valve in the guide and therefore the valve and guide wear significantly in just two spots and do not wear evenly? This is what my engineering man is telling me and suggesting that I go for a coil spring conversion on my G80 alloy head. Cheers Peter