Clutch actuator on B52 box

Alex Logan · Post by **Alex Logan** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 3:12 pm

Guys, just rejoined the club after some 30 odd years (now retired...thank God) and have rebuilt my 1954 AJS 500 twin (B52 box). Clutch moving actuator (G-33-3)was sticking/locking up in the "activated position" and had to be released with a screwdriver through the inspection cover so I stripped it down, renewed the ball bearings, filed off any potential burrs. Seemed to work OK but when I rebuilt and filled with oil, it sticks again.
Can anyone give me some advice please on this and whether I can remove the kickstart cover (G-3-2) with the kick starter lever and gearchange lever still in situ as trying to tension up the kickstart spring with them off has removed three of my fingers and given me a complete new vocabulary

rex.webb · Post by **rex.webb** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 3:51 pm

CHECK YOUR LEVER ON THE HANDLEBAR,s!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The distance from the PIVOT BOLT CENTRE to the NIPLE CENTRE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It should be 7/8 INCH not 1 Inch as i bet yours is.
1 Inch distance gives to much movement and the release plare goes " MOVES to FAR".
RIDE with Care and LIVE LONG to ENJOY YOUR BIKES .

1608 · Post by **1608** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:34 pm

Welcome back Alex, sorry I have no knowledge of Burman boxes. However I'm sure this problem was covered recently on hear so try a search of the forum. Go to top of page click Forum and then search Forum. Good luck

Alex Logan · Post by **Alex Logan** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:52 pm

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:53 pm

Welcome back.
I suspect it's that (as REX HA,S SAID!!!!!!!!!) that the moving plate (with the 3 balls) is overrunning the ramps on the fixed plate due to too much 'throw' of the cable and/or the internal long clutch actuating rod.
Adjust the clutch at the stud and locking nut in the centre of the clutch pressure plate (screw in stud until it bears against the actuating rod, then back off half a turn) - do this with cable disconnected at the actuating lever end - i.e. the end inside the outer g/box cover. Reconnect and adjust cable and all should be well.
Remember, the cable adjuster adjusts the cable, not the clutch.

Alex Logan · Post by **Alex Logan** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:57 pm

Rex..........Distance is one inch as you thought. I guess a new lever is called for. Can I get one through the spares scheme
Many Thanks for such a speedy reply as I was just about to remove the cover...........again

Groily · Post by **Groily** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:02 pm

Could just be that the pushrod is effectively a tad short so the actuating lever is starting in the wrong place and going 'over-centre' and jamming. I'd start by slackening off the cable fully, then adjusting the pushrod at the clutch pressure plate end - screw it in a bit to shove the rod further towards the timing side of the bike - then play with the cable adjuster, and then you'll know for sure whether Rex's lever thing is right, which it could very well be. I've had them do this with the wrong levers - but also with the correct 7/8ths centres levers too - it's a question of getting things correctly adjusted and fiddling about. Assuming the clutch centre is fully home on the shaft of course, that you have the correct pushrod, etc . . . there are quite a few reasons why the clutch might not be working right which aren't just to do with the operating mechanism.
The kickstart shaft quadrant etc comes off spring 'n all with the outer case on the B52, you just need a bar of suitable length and diameter to pass through one of the cover screw holes to hold the lever against its spring until you're ready to put it back again. Having left the KS lever on the shaft of course. Ditto the gear lever, but that part of it is less likely to generate new levels of fluency in the cursing department although there can be occasional devils there too in making sure the gear selection isn't messed up at the barrel cam. Need to take a bit of care to put it back exactly the way it came apart.
Frustrating when they don't seem to want to work right, but satisfying when it all comes together. I've never had a smoother silkier gearbox then the one on my '54 Mod 20.

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:20 pm

Rex is right; it should have a 7/8" throw but you don't HAVE to replace the lever Alex, although the 1" lever will make the clutch action a bit heavier than it needs to be. I've had a 1" lever on mine since Nelson lost his eye, which remains there due to my inertia, and meanness.
Just adjust the clutch as mentioned above and you won't need to pull the lever back so far that it overruns the balls on the ramps.

rex.webb · Post by **rex.webb** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 7:48 pm

Sorry i have been out Silver Soldering a part for my BSA ??? Sunbeam 250cc Scooter.Yes thanks for the "THANK YOU MESSAGE" .Yesterday a friend with a N::::N had me look at his HEAVY CLUTCH.Turned out to be a 1 Inch lever again.
Who uses this type of lever ??.
RIDE with CARE and LIVE LONG to ENJOY your BIKES.

Don Madden · Post by **Don Madden** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:41 pm

I got new levers from JSL & they were 1-1/8in, not the 7/8in as original. I am disappointed that the list did not inform me of the change but I can operate them well enough even at advanced age, me & bike. Cheers, Don. Edited by - Don Madden on 04 Jun 2011 8:42:17 PM