Can't start G9

Rob Harknett · Post by **Rob Harknett** » Sun May 29, 2011 11:56 pm

Maybe you just got to get to know the old thing. Play with the advance/retard lever.
Too far advanced it may kick back and not start, retard it a bit. Eventualy you'll get to know what it likes to start first time. Usualy if you tell it some thing like, if you don't atart you'll go back in the shed & I'll take out one of the other bikes insted. Thats works. If you aint got another bike you're in trouble.

jim carlow · Post by **jim carlow** » Mon May 30, 2011 1:00 am

Thanks Spriddler and Rob, I'd love to have your know how.
I will spend tomorrow doing as you suggest, when you're retired bank hols are never quite the same are they ?
I didn't realise the ammount of Lucas stuff thats available out there , marvellous the web.
Anyway I'll persevere and I'm sure all will come right. Was running ok although because of new metal knees it hasn't been out for a run for a while. Bikes need using don't they.
I'll keep you all posted, good to talk,
Jim

wilko · Post by **wilko** » Mon May 30, 2011 1:00 am

The twin in my garage absolutely refuses to start without copious tickling when cold.Also gone through lots of plugs refusing to work once flooded i.e new ones!

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Mon May 30, 2011 11:19 am

quote:
Thanks Spriddler and Rob, I'd love to have your know how.

I'm merely passing on knowledge gained mostly from others, plus necessity, and a 5 yr apprenticeship as an old-fashioned mechanic in the 60's. But we're all wearing out like our bikes.

If you fancy operating on your mag here's the Lucas Workshop Manual -(courtesy of Christian's Archive)

http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/Ele ... 2F_KVF.pdf

Malleon · Post by **Malleon** » Mon May 30, 2011 12:34 pm

Hello Jim,
Have a browse at your local library for the Haynes 'Motorcycle Electrical Techbook', by Tony Tranter, Haynes reference number 3471. It is a mine of information of all things electrical and electronic from Alternators to Zenners.
Best regards.

jim carlow · Post by **jim carlow** » Mon May 30, 2011 1:11 pm

Thanks for the link Spriddler very usefull info.
likewise for the library suggestion Malleon, I never think of using libraries , ought to more tho as we could lose them if the're not used !!
Talking of links Spriddler, there's one for the Twin workshop manual that I've somehow deleted, you don't have it do you ?
I got a bit too enthusiastic when tidying up me favorites list.
Just going out to potter, can't get going today,
If you see something flying across the home counties it'll probably be me !!
Jim

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Mon May 30, 2011 1:25 pm

There's one here:
( c/o Christian's Archive again)

http://archives.jampot.dk/Book/Workshop ... 5-1965.pdf

Keep yer knee bent!

laxy · Post by **laxy** » Mon May 30, 2011 3:51 pm

Hi Jim, if your bike was running ok last time out then there wont be much wrong with the ign. timing.The timing cannot alter itself purly by the bike being laid up.Check contact breaker gap as this can affect timing but if the bike is kicking you back then youve timed the correct cylinder its just a tiny bit of retarding via the handlebar control required.slack cable is advance tight cable is retard.remove end cover from mag and observe the cam ring moving backwards and forwards as you operate the advance/retard lever at the handlebars.the cable needs to be adjusted properly as it enters the mag to enable the cam ring to travel to its full extent in both directions its movement only being restricted as the cutaway makes contact on the small peg in the mag body.there is a small hole in the cam ring with a felt wick that needs a drop of light oil from time to time to keep things running smoothly.
I have a 650 and as with most twins it suffers from wet sumping if not used regularly if this happens no amount of kicking will persuade it to fire its a case of draining the oil from the sump and emptying it back into the tank. Also, my twin refuses to start on stale petrol.Im talking about anything thats been in the tank (and therfore the carb)for a month or more.Both these points could apply to your situation. Bizzarly my two singles will strike up happily after being laid up for the winter months with petrol several months old. hope some of this info is of some use to you. regards,Keith

jim carlow · Post by **jim carlow** » Mon May 30, 2011 11:38 pm

Thanks Laxy, I think I'd better explain my situation tho.
I bought the bike (photo on site) last July 2010. Cause of my knees, had em both done,I couldn't ride her so been tinkering all this time.
Was running ok when bought but a bit rough.
had a concentric mk 1 on when bought , so to get back to original spec bought a new 376/6 jetted up as Amal bumf. Had to be right didn't it. When I first fitted the new carb I drained the fuel from the tank and put 2 gallons of fresh in. Old fuel OK in the lawnmower !
When ready to go I checked the points put in new Champion N3Cs gave her a good tickle presto away she went about 3rd kick. After a bit of messing got her running good enough for a ride but can't go out due to tax and MOT expired and have had to sorn her. Once ready for MOT decided to take a chance and run her down to local centre. Thats when this starting problem reared up.
Been out there this afternoon checking the timing. Did the fag paper in the points method
I coudn't believe it , the timing is so far out I don't know how it even ran. It was fireing at 5/8 btdc and to get that I had to retard it at the lever so when lever advanced was fireing when the piston was way low. I'll check it again tomorrow to be sure my facts are right. There's a fat spark at the ht lead by the way.
Blimey I'm getting me monies worth this time.
Final thing tonight, when trying to set up carb I ran her pretty hot one time, might this have had a bad effect ? Can't think of anything else.
Jim

jim carlow · Post by **jim carlow** » Mon May 30, 2011 11:51 pm

I lied just thought of something else , I put
Castrol Valvemaster lead replacement additive in the fuel , anyone reckon this ??
Jim