Stuck petrol tank locking nut

Tomschk · Post by **Tomschk** » Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:32 pm

Hi there, I've recently bought a 1960 AJS 16 350cc as a winter project. No doubt I am going to have several questions as I go along, however the first refers to the locking nut that secures the front of the petrol tank to the frame. I've managed to remove one no problem but the left hand one will not budge. I've lubricated it, heated it but it still won't move. I'm now resorting to either drilling through the centre screw from the bottom or cutting the screw off just below the tank in order to get it off. My worry is that if I do that, will it be possible to replace the locking screw in the tank? Any bright ideas or extra information gratefully received.

alfie · Post by **alfie** » Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:53 pm

Heat it up,
Using a 6 sided socket. & ratchet give it a good tug

itma · Post by **itma** » Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:55 pm

presume you mean the two bolts underneath?
they should be bolts, not nuts

cut the nut off below the frame bracket, using a thin disc in an angle grinder would be my way.

It is common to find these tank fixings completely botched;
if the correct bolts and spacers are not used they can be screwed through the bottom of the tank,

the varied desperate remedies for this are a marvel of botchery.
Just get the tank off and look at it hard to see whats what.
use photobucket to post quick links of damage.

heating a fuel tank is not a good idea.

welcome to the wonderful world of old bikes and to this strange placeEdited by - itma on 10 Nov 2010 9:57:31 PM

MikeM. · Post by **MikeM.** » Wed Nov 10, 2010 11:06 pm

Beg to differ Ken, but the 1960 tank had lock nuts on the front fittings, bolts were used in 1959 on all four fixings. The "studs" have screwdriver slots, at least mine has.

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Wed Nov 10, 2010 11:17 pm

I believe that 1960 was the first year of the rubber mounted special bolt which was set in a cylindrical inset in the tank, cut in to a rubber bush with its head and had a thin rubber disc, washer and self locking bolt under the frame mounting.

Things must be pretty bad if this is rusted solid, normally a good socket will shift it, could it be threadlock holding it on?

paultbird · Post by **paultbird** » Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:09 am

I've had 2 1960 singles and worked on a 3rd and all had the earlier bolt / spacer / thin & thick washer arrangement but refering to the spares list shows twins had the later nut fastening.

As Itma says most have stripped the tank threads and have had some modification.

itma · Post by **itma** » Thu Nov 11, 2010 8:35 am

my 1961 AFS 350 has the threaded plates old style,
I wish it didn't

1608 · Post by **1608** » Thu Nov 11, 2010 11:07 am

I would be very careful using an angle grinder any where near a pet tank. A hacksaw is less likely to cause a spark or any collateral damage.If you try and muscle the nut/bolt with large spanner it may cause a fracture to the tank. Use a junior hacksaw.

itma · Post by **itma** » Thu Nov 11, 2010 11:22 am

oh dear 1608, you should have seen me cutting lumps out of the bottom of mine then

a thin stainless metal cutting disc will be so quick as to hardly notice.
I am presuming its empty? fill it with water if you are worried.

I find junior hacksaws useless for almost anything.

1608 · Post by **1608** » Thu Nov 11, 2010 3:34 pm

Oh dear Itma, I'm surpried at your blase and cavalier attitude in reccomending the use of such tools to somebody that has to ask how to tackle a stubborn 'nut and bolt !' .With only one post to his name.I mean no disrepect Tomschk, but you will soon learn that some bits for these old machines aren't that easy come by, especially good tanks., and garages for that matter!