Harris G80 -No spark

ianselva · Post by **ianselva** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 12:00 pm

Hi, I had to remove the battery and carrier to repair and refit the airbox and now can't get a spark. I don't think I have disconnected anything in error. What can I test to trace the fault ?

Cheers

IanEdited by - ianselva on 03 Sep 2010 11:45:37 AM

GOLDSTAR · Post by **GOLDSTAR** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:01 pm

coil ignition is'nt it? do all the lights work correctly, seems a short from battery to coil a wire you have dislodged when removing the battery and/or carrier perhaps, check the circuits with a multimeter if possible, bulb and wire if not, kind regards.

occasionally a wire will break behind the insulation sleeve and is a bugger to find, I recall a boss of mine once fitted new points to his elderly Volvo, the car would run for a while then cut out cool down restarted and again run for a while, took ages to discover as the automatic advance moved and the points heated up a break in the new low tension wire from the points but hidden behind the sleeve was opening and breaking contact.more kind regardsEdited by - GOLDSTAR on 03 Sep 2010 4:05:36 PM

ianselva · Post by **ianselva** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:04 pm

No its alternator fed electronic ignition. All the lights ,indicators and electric start work OK.
Ian

GOLDSTAR · Post by **GOLDSTAR** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:06 pm

are you saying there is no coil? kind regards

ianselva · Post by **ianselva** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:13 pm

Obviously there is a coil but technical notes say
Note that the ignition does not have an off switch, it has three means of earthing the signal to the ignition box. These are the kill switch, the propstand switch and the ignition key. If all of these are open circuit the engine can be kick-started and will run. Therefore if ever you loose your key all you need to do to get the engine running is to remove the connection block from the base of the ignition switch or disconnect the black/white wire connection to the ignition box.
. I have tried the above but no improvement . It is a Jap nippon denso coil and an amplifier box.
If it was straightforward coil and points I would have no problems fault finding.

Ian

GOLDSTAR · Post by **GOLDSTAR** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:37 pm

I'm sorry Ian I cant help further electrickery is a black art, I have a friend close to me who is the wizard of all electrickery but that does not help you I'm afraid, I'm sure someone will come up with the answer on this forum, you will just have to keep the subject topical, good luck and kind regards,

jonhal · Post by **jonhal** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 9:50 pm

Did you disturb anything on the regulator box? Is the main earth lead on the right hand airbox ok?
The prop stand cut out switch can look as if it is closed, but maybe not be correctly, or oiled up.Edited by - jonhal on 04 Sep 2010 09:38:29 AM

ianselva · Post by **ianselva** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:49 am

I didn't touch anything on the wiring on purpose apart from disconnect and re-connect the battery. There are 2 earth wires one to the frame and one to the mudguard fitting , and two wires on the positive terminal ,the main starter feed and the brown main electrics feed. I dont think it has the prop stand switch anymore as there are a couple of wires near the headstock that have been cut and protected.

Ian

ianselva · Post by **ianselva** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 11:47 am

Cheers guys - sorted
It was the propstand switch . The propstand spring is pretty weak and wasn't returning the propstand well enough. I've adjusted the switch for now till I get a stronger spring.

Ian