Starting an engine after a long rest

[44]

Hello,

So I tried to fire the bike few days ago.

At the 1st kick start, I had a big "BANG" in the right exhaust and at the 3rd one, the engine started.

I was almost crying of joy when 10 seconds later the engine stops.
))

Then I realized that I have a BIG fuel leakage on the carburetor.
There are some fuel leakages on the float chamber and at the union nut.

The gasket in the union nut and the feed needle are definitely dead I think (they are really used).

In fact there are a lot of damaged screws on the carburetor.
The air screw, the top of the float chamber, ...

So as I've some bucks to spend... maybe I'm going to buy a new one.

I saw in the work book that in 1954 they used to mount 76 AT/1EF and before 1954 --> 76AG/1AU Amal.

On my carburetor on the body, it is stamped : 76AG/AI ???

What do you recommend as carburetor ?
Do you have some good shop address to order a complete carb ?
I saw in an other topic that you recommend "Surrey Cycles"

Thank you very much for the attention that you give to my topic.

Have a good day or a good night.
Andy

[Merlin]

Try http://www.amalcarburettors.co.uk I have not tried them but they seem to have many carbs.
Have a good Easter.
regards
MerlinEdited by - Merlin on 09 Apr 2009 9:49:30 PM

[Groily]

Surrey Cycles supplied me with a good reconditioned Type 76 with the correct angle of inclination of the float chamber for a '54 Mod 20 (8 degrees I think from memory) a couple of years ago. It was not cheap, but it was very good and has worked faultlessly ever since.

However, I wouldn't assume just because there are leaks that it's dead.

If the bike was 'rebuilt', presumably many of the bits have already been looked at. After disuse, often the float needle sticks and various other things happen, which a good clean up will cure, as I mentioned before. Nothing is more common than the union between the fuel feed and the bottom of the float chamber leaking like a sieve - apart from the float needle being a bit sticky in the fuel inlet valve. It can't have worn out while going nowhere, so if the instrument passed the re-usability test when it was rebuilt, it ought to be OK. However, you say there damaged screw threads . . .

If you prefer, a Type 376 monobloc will also work well, but is tight for space on the mounting studs to the inlet manifold. Slide, needle and jetting information for 500s are all in the literature, as they became standard fitments a year or so later.

Going even further, a Concentric could also be used, and would be easier to get on and off. But way out of period and I think they're horrible on bikes that are meant to be standard.

[legg]

quote:
-----------------------------------------------------------
To be old and wise you’ve got first to be young and stupid. ;o)
Andy


Thank you, Andy. I now feel so much better about my misspent youth!