Model 30, '56 - engine studs
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- dave16mct
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
It seems my gear case is litte bit different, but my adjuster are in the same position.
Practically the big bolt keeps the gear case in position and the adjuster fix the desired position, right?
/Giovanni
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- dave16mct
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Yes it stops the gearbox going backwards and tightening the primary chain. You would be better off with an adjuster which has an extension or a longer hexagon to make it easier to get a spanner on it. I think your gearbox may be from a CS which had adjusters on both sides outside the engine plates.
Dave
Dave
- Duncan
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
For 1956 the original gearbox would have been a Burman B52 (GB) with an adjuster outside the engine plate, do you know which gearbox you have?
- dave16mct
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Thanks Duncan, I'm forgetting mine's a 58 with AMC box. Giovanni's will probably be a Burman, although he seems to have an alloy chaincase. I think that adjuster would still be OK.
Dave
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Folks,
moving ahead in my restoration, I approach the primary chain.
But I have a doubt: here the parts I have in the picture below. Looking the parts list it seems missing the one identified as 014295 in the picture, I am right? Try to investigate a bit on AMOC online catalog, the part is not listed, I am a bit confused...
/Giovanni
moving ahead in my restoration, I approach the primary chain.
But I have a doubt: here the parts I have in the picture below. Looking the parts list it seems missing the one identified as 014295 in the picture, I am right? Try to investigate a bit on AMOC online catalog, the part is not listed, I am a bit confused...
/Giovanni
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- Duncan
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Hi Giovanni, I believe that the part is in your second picture filing the aperture in the crankcase, if you have a strong magnet it should pill out, It should have a scroll on it to direct oil back into the engine. It also acts as a sort of thrust spacer between the drive sprocket and the main bearing as the drive sprocket moves against the cam and spring to smooth the engine pulses.
- ajscomboman
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
It's all present and correct, if you blow the picture right up you can see the edge of the oil scroll on the spacer in the case, Just check the breather bolt by sucking and blowing. Stick the thread in your mouth and blow, if it releases that's good, if you suck in it should seal the sprung flap shut. If it doesn't and you can still suck in plenty of air then it needs an overhaul or a new replacement. All parts and complete assembly available through the spares dept.
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Duncan & ajscomboman,
thank you for help. Understood the way the primary sprocket now is in place, look the picture below. Placing the chaincase back half, I found that the sprocket is not passing the hole in the chaincase.
There is any trick to do it without removing the sprocket again?
/Giovanni
thank you for help. Understood the way the primary sprocket now is in place, look the picture below. Placing the chaincase back half, I found that the sprocket is not passing the hole in the chaincase.
There is any trick to do it without removing the sprocket again?
/Giovanni
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