Burman 52 gearbox - clutch issue

[Ralph]

When the clutch is pulled in and you spin it via the kick start does the alloy pressure plate spin true,
if not adjust the springs till it does, the 4 turn out thing is only a starting point the springs have to be
adjusted individually till the plate runs true or as close as you can get it, ignore if you have already
done this.

[G3L1946]

Hi Ralph,
Pointing out that 4 turns is a starting point, believe it or not, is helpful. I’m a bit prone to ‘stick to the book’ so ,maybe, a bit of latitude thinking is needed. I will check as you suggest both visually and with a gauge and adjust each spring individually if necessary.
Thank you, and everyone, for the helpful contributions
Appreciated,

Steve

[Reynard24]

Having just re-read the 1955 owner’s manual, I can see no reference to the 4 turns being a “starting point”. The manual says that the “ ... instructions must be carefully observed” and 4 turns has always been the way I have adjusted the clutch on my ‘55 G80S with no issues whatsoever in 40+ years, indeed I have just followed this procedure on another Burman equipped bike with equally pleasing results. The factory knew what they were doing.
From your photographs, both the pushrod adjuster and the cable itself seem to be near to the end of their respective adjustment compared with my experience.

[G3L1946]

Hi,
Something to think about. I’ve just got to experiment and use other peoples experiences and hope I manage to work it out.
Thanks,

Steve

[G3L1946]

Hi all,

I’m now stumped! Clutch plates are free moving and, as best I can measure, are separating evenly. Tried adjusting, readjusting, no joy. I measured the movement traveled out ( in the basket) of the outermost plain clutch plate. This is only about 1/8” which seems small? However, clutch lever in and kicks over with no resistance. Clutch released , normal resistance as expected.
Seems like I’m never going to get out on it in the near future.
Much scratching of head, reading articles in the hope of finding the answer. I’m hoping I’m not going to strip the kick starter side down again to see if anything is amiss there. To my best knowledge those bits that were worn were replaced like the dowel.

Cheers,

Steve

[Ralph]

For the gears to crunch going in the clutch must be transmitting some drive.
When starting my kick start bikes I always free the clutch without this they
often go in with some noise.

[Duncan]

Steve, probably not your problem and not related to the clutch but if you have repositioned the gear lever you may not be getting a full movement and return to the rest position with your foot that can sometimes make gears difficult to engage.

[G3L1946]

Hi both,

Thanks for the continued help and words of encouragement. This might have no influence at all but, after removing the clutch inspection cap (dome) and refilling with oil that many times, I now leave the cap off so I can more easily, and less oily, make adjustments. The fact that the clutch is not running in oil would that make a difference.? I thought not, but?
The gear pedal I have removed, re- oriented and replace a dozen or so times to see if that influences anything. Nope!
I just hope the nice weather we’re experiencing doesn’t depart North Yorkshire before I can take a ride!
What really causes me concern is the amount of adjuster that is outside the kick star cover. It’s practically on half a screw thread! I’ve always been accustomed to such adjusters being ‘half in’ and ‘half out’ so they could be adjusted in both directions. The cable is new. It conforms to the cable dimensions in the 1955 spares manual. Something is alluding me!
Regards,

Steve

[g80csp11]

im sure you have checked that the rod is 9.7/8 long for 1952 G3LS , that might explain the cable position if not correct + of course one 5/16 ball bearing all listed on page 24 of the parts book

[Groily]

The cable adjuster at the 'box is clearly further out than is desirable, as you say. If the lever that operates the 'three-ball sandwich' is in a sensible mid-position inside the outer cover and you HAVE got the right length pushrod and the ball bearing etc etc - then either the cable is short on the outer or the pattern handlebar lever has less meat on the section into which the ferrule on the cable slots than an original. Or the 'right' cable, er, isn't. Can't really be anything else?

Doesn't solve your main problem of The Clunk, but you could maybe add a split ferrule one end or the other to increase the cable outer's length and reduce over-reliance on the adjuster if the other bits are indeed not the wrong spec?

(As an aside, I think it would also be a very good idea to try to fill the very visible air gap between the lever mount and the 'bars with a bit o' something solid to avoid fatigue after repeated use of the clutch - those sorts of levers have - truly, DAMHIK - been known to fracture for want of adequate support. And if the brake lever is of the same type, even more important!)