Front Brake Cable too Long

[AFPU]

Hi All

I have been tryig to fit a new front brake cable as part of recommissioning the bike. The cable I obtained through the club spares service was the 'T780 brake control front cable: 1960-on CS singles & twins, except G15CS; all models fitted with 'Western' handlebars', as I have semi-western bars fitted and Doherty levers without cable adjusters.

However, I am unable to get any braking effect even with the fork adjuster screwed out to its maximum. Therefore, either the inner cable is too long or the outer is too short.

Do I therefore have the wrong cable or am I missing something?

[AFPU]

The levers are Doherty 407P type

[SPRIDDLER]

I'm not familiar with later bikes but is the operating lever at the brake backplate correctly orientated on the brake operating shaft?

[OEW591]

Unfortunately the pattern cables stocked by the spares scheme are a bit 'hit or miss'. They are unlikely to be exactly the same as original equipment cables. If you have the skills and equipment, you're better off making your own. If not try AMC Classic Spares or JJ Cables direct. I would only ever use the club cables as a last resort and would expect to have to modify them.

[MikeM.]

Are you sure the brake shoes don’t need to be adjusted, have you a lot of movement in the brake arm? MikeM

[clive]

My experience with the club cables has been ok provided the original equipment is fitted. Has your bike got any old cables you can check the relative length of inner and outer?
When there are difficulties with the length i would be checking the following.
That the brake plate, brake stay and brake operating arm are all correct for the year. There were a number of differences which resulted in the need for different cable lengths inner to outer.
That the levers are to the correct design to the original, i am afraid i do not know the Doherty numbers .
Finally that the brake shoes have a decent amount left on the lining. If they do the mushrooms under the ends can be packed out with washers (making sure they are the same thickness both sides. The shoes should allow free rotation but start biting with only a little movement on the operating arm.
The brake plate needs to be centred before being locked into position by pulling arm across hard.
If all else fails JJ cables will make one to the correct length inner to outer to your specification.

[AFPU]

Are you sure the brake shoes don’t need to be adjusted, have you a lot of movement in the brake arm? MikeM

Yes MikeM I do have quite a bit of movement at the brake arm. I have been looking through various manuals and have to admit to being a little unlcear as to how to examine the brake shoes.....so seems a dumb question but how does one go about it?

[AFPU]

Are you sure the brake shoes don’t need to be adjusted, have you a lot of movement in the brake arm? MikeM

Yes MikeM I do have quite a bit of movement at the brake arm. I have been looking through various manuals and have to admit to being a little unlcear as to how to examine the brake shoes.....so seems a dumb question but how does one go about it?

OK problem solved, lock nut removed and brake shoes exposed to show that they were on the leading shoe just about down to one of the rivets....so new shoes are in order.

[clive]

Well that should improve things but don't count on modern brake standards. You may still need to pack out the mushrooms if the hub is very worn.