I've not used a strobe on my bikes but time them to 1/2" BTDC (on the compression stroke ) by the stick down the plug 'ole method.
According to the workshop manual 1/2" BTDC is 39 deg. You could set your strobe to that. (I can't find a figure for 7/16").
If it feels too advanced when you have a test ride you can twiddle with the h/bar lever to retard it a bit.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
SPRIDDLER wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2023 6:42 pm
I've not used a strobe on my bikes but time them to 1/2" BTDC (on the compression stroke ) by the stick down the plug 'ole method.
According to the workshop manual 1/2" BTDC is 39 deg. You could set your strobe to that. (I can't find a figure for 7/16").
If it feels too advanced when you have a test ride you can twiddle with the h/bar lever to retard it a bit.
So do I put the pointer and white mark on the crankshaft at 7/16" btdc or when at tdc or both?
Steve wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2023 6:53 pm
So do I put the pointer and white mark on the crankshaft at 7/16" btdc or when at tdc or both?
I hesitate to say as the strobe I've used on my car doesn't have the facility to pre-set the amount of advance required so I just put a mark at the amount of advance I want.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Steve wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2023 6:53 pm
So do I put the pointer and white mark on the crankshaft at 7/16" btdc or when at tdc or both?
I hesitate to say as the strobe I've used on my car doesn't have the facility to pre-set the amount of advance required so I just put a mark at the amount of advance I want.
So that would be at the 7/16" btdc then, and if lower than that then it would be to far advanced, and higher slightly retarded.
Hopefully if I set the strobe to 0 then it will just work as a standard strobe light.
Steve wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2023 8:55 pm
Hopefully if I set the strobe to 0 then it will just work as a standard strobe light.
It would seem that's the case.
As you are using a figure of 7/16" BTDC rather than degrees you put your white mark on the crankshaft (or timing disc) at the point when the piston is 7/16" BTDC. You need to have a fixed (non-rotating) mark or a pointer that indicates when the piston is at TDC.
(1/2" is more advanced than 7/16").
Have a look at this video from 2min 40secs onward. It's a car but the process is the same.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
bugger bugger bugger what a tool I am.
today I took the chain case off and set the timing however I've just realised that I forgot to set the strobe light to zero first.
it was set to around 2 to 4 degrees advanced. so I will need to do it all again tomorrow, I was wondering why it was spitting back through the carb
I guess now I do least hast more speed.
on the plus side the bike is running although still not the easiest thing to start but I did get a small ride, and at least now when I retard the ignition with the leaver the engine slows whereas before it ran faster, so hopefully I can get it set right tomorrow.
anyway thanks yet again Nev its looking like I should make it on the AJ to Sammy Millers.
Yes all redone and seams to be running fine, took it out for a 40 mile run and all was well. Although it's a struggle riding at 30/40 Mph when you just want to open it up to see how it will go.
But as I don't want to bugger it up its restraint time.
But at least I can use it for the Sammy Miller meet hope to see some of you there
Steve wrote: ↑Thu Aug 10, 2023 2:48 pm
Although it's a struggle riding at 30/40 Mph when you just want to open it up to see how it will go.
But as I don't want to bugger it up its restraint time.
Well done Steve. Try to get plenty of shakedown miles on it before the trip.
I'm sure you already know, but I'll mention (just for my own peace of mind) that 30 to 40mph is one thing but it's important to keep the engine spinning by using lower gears on inclines to maintain 30 to 40 rather than hanging on to a higher gear. It's useful to bear in mind that oil flow is relative to engine revs so more oil is flowing (lubricating and cooling the engine) at relatively higher revs rather than at lower revs.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Steve wrote: ↑Thu Aug 10, 2023 2:48 pm
Although it's a struggle riding at 30/40 Mph when you just want to open it up to see how it will go.
But as I don't want to bugger it up its restraint time.
Well done Steve. Try to get plenty of shakedown miles on it before the trip.
I'm sure you already know, but I'll mention (just for my own peace of mind) that 30 to 40mph is one thing but it's important to keep the engine spinning by using lower gears on inclines to maintain 30 to 40 rather than hanging on to a higher gear. It's useful to bear in mind that oil flow is relative to engine revs so more oil is flowing (lubricating and cooling the engine) at relatively higher revs rather than at lower revs.
Well that's excellent Nev now you've gone and thrown a spanner in the works, here am I thinking the last thing I should be doing is revving it, and now you've telling me to keep the revs up.
Maybe I should stick to walking
Steve wrote: ↑Thu Aug 10, 2023 6:08 pm
Well that's excellent Nev now you've gone and thrown a spanner in the works, here am I thinking the last thing I should be doing is revving it, and now you've telling me to keep the revs up.
Maybe I should stick to walking
It's difficult to quantify 'revving'.
I don't mean giving it the beans! Just don't let it labour.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
) by the stick down the plug 'ole method. 
