SPRIDDLER wrote: ↑Fri Aug 04, 2023 5:50 pm
I assume you bought it from Sussex Motorcycles. Chris is the owner/sole trader and operates from a grain silo on a farm 'business park' three miles from my house.
CIMG7527.JPG
Hi Nev
Yeah brought from Sussex Motorcycles.
I've phoned a few times with questions and found them very helpful, whether that will continue if after testing with the multi meter if I find no faults with the wiring, time will tell.
In the instructions it does say that the advance/retard end of the cable can sometimes touch the pickup plate causing a short so will need to check that along with the wiring.
I'm rapidly running out of time to get it running for the Sammy Miller meet, so may have to use my Bonneville
The case from the coil needs to be earthed. Also check you haven't blown the fuse. I put a bulb across the coil terminals and when the rotor goes round it should flicker. Is the lecky getting there?
Hail Joe Lucas ............ Prince of Darkness!
All my bikes are original........ to me!
"Creativity is your intelligence having fun" Albert Einstein
spookefoote1956 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 04, 2023 6:51 pm
The case from the coil needs to be earthed. Also check you haven't blown the fuse. I put a bulb across the coil terminals and when the rotor goes round it should flicker. Is the lecky getting there?
Have to say I don't quite see why a coil case should need to be earthed, most aren't and in fact many are rubber-mounted (both my Boyers had 2 6v ones in series, in rubber mounts inside their brackets) but maybe there's something with this system. Because the coil supplied has studs to attach it to something on the frame, should end up 'earthed' if it needs to be I'd have thought.
Thorspark coil.jpg
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The N1 version comes with a traditional coil. I must dig out the photos of my system that I had. Don't forget the substantial earth. What's the battery?
Hail Joe Lucas ............ Prince of Darkness!
All my bikes are original........ to me!
"Creativity is your intelligence having fun" Albert Einstein
spookefoote1956 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 05, 2023 9:32 am
The N1 version comes with a traditional coil. I must dig out the photos of my system that I had. Don't forget the substantial earth. What's the battery?
Oops, my bad! Was the only coil pic I could find on their site, albeit a double-ender. They don't seem to have a pic of what the kit comprises for N1 / MO1.
But even so, I still don't really understand why a traditional coil case would need to be earthed.
spookefoote1956 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 04, 2023 5:07 pm
Is the coil casing earthed? Have you used the coil that came in the kit or another one? It should be 5 ohms low tension if my brain serves me right and I think 17k on HT? Can't really remember the second one but sounds right. Have you made sure that none of the little screws are earthing out? Could you up load some pictures. I used to have one in an N1 mag.
spookefoote1956 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 05, 2023 9:32 am
The N1 version comes with a traditional coil. I must dig out the photos of my system that I had. Don't forget the substantial earth. What's the battery?
hi Chris yes i have used the coil that came with the kit, i think it was called (WAT YOUG) sounds like a cheep Chinese thing to me but for all I know it could be a quality product?
ill check hopefully tomorrow for any shorts etc.
I have 2 batteries Lucas LSLA4-6 - 6 volt 4 amp wired in parallel so giving 6 volt 8 amp.
lights and horn work fine.
Right hoping someone is around.
These are my findings
Meter set to 200
coil - to + 2.00 ohms
Coil - to coil case 2.00 ohms
Coil + to coil case 0.00 ohms
Meter set to 20k
Ciol - to ht 9.00 ohms so assume that's 9000 ohms
Coil + to ht 9.00 ohms
Also the supplied ignition switch had melted and the green lead also.
I have bypassed the switch and have power to the coil and can't find any shorts. Photos below
20230806_110640.jpg
20230806_110459.jpg
20230806_110540.jpg
20230806_110446.jpg
20230806_110434.jpg
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Your 2ohms and 9K ohms are likely correct as I suspect what you have is the same as 2 above, from the same manufacturer.
When measuring from + and - LT terminals to earth (coil case and/or bracket etc) it's actually your 2 ohm primary resistance which you're seeing again - assuming you had the leads attached to the Thorspark bits on the bike when you measured.
If you were to measure any of the three coil take-offs to earth, with no wires on them, you'd see nothing every time, because not a one of the terminals is connected to the case of the coil. All the internals need to be 'floating' as it were: if there were a permanent earth you'd never be able to make and break the low tension circuit to power the coil, be it with a contact breaker or more modern means.
The earthing requirement which has been much discussed is done via the low tension earth wire. That earth is common to both windings - ie one end of the LT winding and one end of the HT winding are joined together internally, and the lead off goes to the earth side of the 'points' or in this case of the Thorspark kit. There is no 'earth return' like with the brush on the magneto as it used to be.
If wires have melted, then there has been a short or other wiring snafu somewhere, so very steady as you go with the jury-rigged set-up.
Your 2ohms and 9K ohms are likely correct as I suspect what you have is the same as 2 above, from the same manufacturer.
When measuring from + and - LT terminals to earth (coil case and/or bracket etc) it's actually your 2 ohm primary resistance which you're seeing again - assuming you had the leads attached to the Thorspark bits on the bike when you measured.
If you were to measure any of the three coil take-offs to earth, with no wires on them, you'd see nothing every time, because not a one of the terminals is connected to the case of the coil. All the internals need to be 'floating' as it were: if there were a permanent earth you'd never be able to make and break the low tension circuit to power the coil, be it with a contact breaker or more modern means.
The earthing requirement which has been much discussed is done via the low tension earth wire. That earth is common to both windings - ie one end of the LT winding and one end of the HT winding are joined together internally, and the lead off goes to the earth side of the 'points' or in this case of the Thorspark kit. There is no 'earth return' like with the brush on the magneto as it used to be.
If wires have melted, then there has been a short or other wiring snafu somewhere, so very steady as you go with the jury-rigged set-up.
thanks Bill
I am just about done and my poor half braincell is fried, I'm thinking ill need to find an auto electrician to sort it.
as far as I can tell I've connected it as per the instructions and at one point using one of those orange plastic things between the spark plug and the ht lead it was showing it sparking, put the tank back on having put a rubber cover over the coil just to make sure nothing could touch the tank and nothing not a cough. got the wife to watch the plug no spark put the plastic tester on again confirmed no spark checked a few things and found the fuse had blown again I think that's 3 fuses that I've blown now. i had fitted an extra earth to the coil mounting plate. and thought that was what had got it sparking but presumably not.
re the coil readings they were taken with the wires attached however I checked the coil on its own and I think I got nothing from the + to the case but the same 2.00 ohms from the - to the case. as I said I don't know what else I can do and think I need expert help.
so ill be going to Sammy Millers on the Bonneville after all as I cant see it getting fixed before then.
