Oil - again
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Re: Oil - again
If you have the typical K2F with a domed cover on your G9, you could modify it easily for a brush & cut-out wire instead of the button, and connect that to a switch that earths the mag when the tap is shut. Pic of one of my mags attached.
Remote cut-out button on 'bars is also a lot easier than reaching down from the seat in an emergency . . .
Remote cut-out button on 'bars is also a lot easier than reaching down from the seat in an emergency . . .
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Re: Oil - again
Interested in how you modified it, G.
I finished up buying a (not very good) plastic version ..
Agree about cut out switch on the bars .. acts as a security fitting .. hides the cut-out on the sumping tap from all but the most savvy thieves ..
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Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
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Re: Oil - again
Slightly enlarged hole in dome for push button (removed, with spring and split pin and put somewhere safe (maybe!)).
Bit of 10mm nylon/teflon bar turned to c. 8mm for most of its length leaving a 'top-hat' to go against inside of dome to stop it falling out. (Or just a tight fit of a parallel 8mm bit would do, with a dab of epoxy, to save messing with diameters.)
Plastic drilled for enough depth to take a 5mm dia HT-type brush fitted up inner end to sit against head of cb centre screw.
Outer end (last few mm) of plastic drilled (could be tapped too) to allow small screw (say 5 or 4BA, M3 or 4, whatever) to pass from within as a tight fit so nut on outside can be nipped up snugly. Brush spring seats against screw head - might need a washer shoving up too, to ensure broad contact.
Washer and nut on threaded bit on the outside, holding wire off to go to oil tap and / or 'bars kill button.
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Done a few of these over the years on this type of mag end cap, because swapping for a plastic one is a) not how it should be on most of these machines and b) gets us into fastener trouble for the camring & bearing housing ears, which need those awkward double-ended 2 BA studs with hexagonal section in the middle to hold the housing on independently of the outer cover. Have seen it done using long 2BA screws holding the lot - but don't like because with housing not guaranteed tightly secured, can't be sure about points gap when doing basic maintenance. As you can see, I like knurled brass elongated 'nuts' for the cover as it's easy to get 'em off. Even with a deep nut the lower one can be a pain to get a weapon on, as many of us know.
Bit of 10mm nylon/teflon bar turned to c. 8mm for most of its length leaving a 'top-hat' to go against inside of dome to stop it falling out. (Or just a tight fit of a parallel 8mm bit would do, with a dab of epoxy, to save messing with diameters.)
Plastic drilled for enough depth to take a 5mm dia HT-type brush fitted up inner end to sit against head of cb centre screw.
Outer end (last few mm) of plastic drilled (could be tapped too) to allow small screw (say 5 or 4BA, M3 or 4, whatever) to pass from within as a tight fit so nut on outside can be nipped up snugly. Brush spring seats against screw head - might need a washer shoving up too, to ensure broad contact.
Washer and nut on threaded bit on the outside, holding wire off to go to oil tap and / or 'bars kill button.
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Done a few of these over the years on this type of mag end cap, because swapping for a plastic one is a) not how it should be on most of these machines and b) gets us into fastener trouble for the camring & bearing housing ears, which need those awkward double-ended 2 BA studs with hexagonal section in the middle to hold the housing on independently of the outer cover. Have seen it done using long 2BA screws holding the lot - but don't like because with housing not guaranteed tightly secured, can't be sure about points gap when doing basic maintenance. As you can see, I like knurled brass elongated 'nuts' for the cover as it's easy to get 'em off. Even with a deep nut the lower one can be a pain to get a weapon on, as many of us know.
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Re: Oil - again
Thank you G ..
Must gird my lions and summon my inner man (are we allowed to used that word in these woke days) and try to do it properly ..
Must gird my lions and summon my inner man (are we allowed to used that word in these woke days) and try to do it properly ..
___
Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
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Re: Oil - again
I just remove the H.T. cap from the sparkling plug when I leave the bike with the tap off.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
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Re: Oil - again
Gird, loins or man?
Probably none of them, but in sooth, who cares?
Bombling contentedly around rural Aberdeenshire
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Re: Oil - again
my 1956 16ms also has a magneto ..
Connect the earthing point on the side (bit of a fiddle, but I managed it with advice from the forum) to the sumping tap switch and then to frame earth.. Magneto is disabled when tap is closed ..
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Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
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Re: Oil - again
Only thing that worries me if I understand the switched valve correctly is that its not "fail safe"
If the wire was to loose connection or switch failed, it would be open circuit and allow the mag to work with the tap shut?
I would rather have a Bowden cable that pulled the brush from the centre bolt, that way if the cable breaks it fails safe?
Switches have a habit of failing on me, a small percentage of fails but I would be one of them for sure!
If the wire was to loose connection or switch failed, it would be open circuit and allow the mag to work with the tap shut?
I would rather have a Bowden cable that pulled the brush from the centre bolt, that way if the cable breaks it fails safe?
Switches have a habit of failing on me, a small percentage of fails but I would be one of them for sure!
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Re: Oil - again
Not sure about remote kill switch though