AJS & Matchless Owners Club

I read searches, posted myself some time ago and now re-visiting with a new thread. 56 G80S, refurbished 6v short dynamo and electronc voltage regulator (Al Osborn's V-RegII)

Going to do two things:
1) fit two relays, one for high beam and the other low beam and carry on with tungsten bulb not happy with beam pattern on Halogen or LED;
2) also going to fit two 12v LED spotlights, through an upscaling convertor with both on at High beam and nearside one only on Low beam but always angled down to pick out road edge.

My plan is to fit a relay for High and Low beam. A third third relay in the 12v feed to the offside. When on Low beam 6v to relay 1 to operate the supply to the headlight and 12 volt converter but no 6v power to the relay 2 in the 12v feed to the offside which remains open and therefore no power supply to spot. When on High beam, 6v feed to relay 3 for the headlight, 12v convertor and piggyback to the relay 2 in the 12v feed to offside spot to switch on that spot.

Johnny B

PS wonder if these would fit the bill? https://www.switchelectronics.co.uk/6v- ... y-spdt-15a

Those relays are meant for mounting on a printed circuit board and only have tiny pins for connection. They will probably break off fairly rapidly if you solder cable to them.

Cheers

I couldn't find a thread where someone posted a link to appropriate relays at around £4-5. Hope Groily will post.

Cheers

Johnny B

You wont need 10 amp

If you use those relays you could build it onto https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Strip-Board- ... ctupt=true

Hi

Do you really need another three components that could fail in the future, especially hard wired ones which you can't fix at the roadside? I'd just run in the necessary additional conductors direct, no relays.

Regards Mick

Thanks for the comments. Pharisee is probably right about the small pins, I hadn't realise just looking at the pic on website. So thanks Oldcarguy but I'll use something a bit larger and robust.

Mick, I see your point but intend using the Matchless more at night and if the relays fail it's relatively simple to by pass them. There were posts about the benefits of using them as opposed to the simple mechanical switch. It allows me to use 12v and 6v on the same machine and also ensure that I can use the ferociously bright spots without blinding other road users while not changing or adding to the controls on already crowded handlebars. I know it's not KISS but..............................

Johnny B

Mick D wrote:Hi

Do you really need another three components that could fail in the future, especially hard wired ones which you can't fix at the roadside? I'd just run in the necessary additional conductors direct, no relays.

Regards Mick

This!

Be careful when selecting relays. Unfortunately very poor Chinese versions have flooded in. I bought some from RS components and some on line. Of 8 that I bought ALL had the wrong diagram embedded. I had to find the pin pattern with a meter and make my own diagram. One had no circuit throug the coil. Two broke spades off on first disconnection. These relays were about £4 each. I have concluded that next time I will buy something like Omron or BMW original equipment even if second hand as they are about £18 each new.
Stan