G80 clutch

wattsup · Post by **wattsup** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 10:10 am

Thanks Steve,
Biscuit, I know what your saying but when I got the bike there was one friction plate short with a standard length rod so some one shortened the outer.
Steve I've measured the plates and using agricultural methods (caliper and ruler) I get a measurement of 1.31 inches, which seems abvout right. I'm still awaiting the new cable, so I'll report when everything is together.

Thanks again for your comments.

David

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 11:26 am

Hi David, bit concerned about my 'incompetent' remark, obviously aimed at the 'someone' who removed the plate and shortened the cable. As I'm sure you know the clutch adjustment should be set up using the adjustable fulcrum point, I think it's 1/32" clearance from the pushrod which equates to 1/8" at the top of the operating lever, then put the cable on.

wattsup · Post by **wattsup** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 1:00 am

Hello Biscuit,
Now you've really confused me! You say "set the clearance at 1/8" at the top of the operating lever, then put the cable on". Without the cable on, the operating lever can be pulled back till it strikes the front lip of the filler hole which equates to about a 1 inch gap! Am I missing something here?

Cheers

David

Steve Martin · Post by **Steve Martin** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 11:05 am

Hi David, I hope this is right, What Alan is saying is:

1. Disconnect the cable. This will allow the operationg lever [inside the box] to contact the filler hole edge. There will be a lot of available movement.

2. With the lever in this position, adjust the fulcrum [in your case probably inwards] so that the cable end of the operating lever can move inwards by only 1/8" before the pushrod comes up against the pressure plate. Because of the relative lever lengths involved, this 1/8" movement will provide the necessary 1/32" pushrod running clearance, while allowing the maximum lever travel when operating the clutch. To adjust the fulcrum inwards, remove the two-screw cap, and unscrew the nut a few turns, pushing the assembly inward if necessary. Once set, replace the cap. If you run out of thread before reaching the above position you probably do need to look at the push-rod length again.

3. Fit a correct cable, and use the cable adjuster to set the clearance at the handlebar lever. I have mine about 1/8", but preferences vary slightly. 'Correct' here means a cable that will fit with the other components as set up. If it won't fit, alter or replace it, don't make any major changes to suit the cable. To be fair, the Haycraft Manual does suggest using the cable adjuster to make changes to the clutch, but this is for very minor compensations for insert wear or cable stretch; definitely not for major setting up.

Best of luck, Steve.

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 5:50 pm

Precisely Steve, except the fulcrum definitely moves in towards the box to reduce the play, this by turning the sleeve nut ANTI clockwise.
If this 1/8" movement cannot be obtained - is the ball between the short forked push rod and the main pushrod in place, if it is then the push rod is too short. With your present 1" movement you are losing a great proportion of the available movement to disengage the clutch.

wattsup · Post by **wattsup** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 2:34 am

Hi Guys
With the adjusting nut backed off as far as I dare turn it, I still have about an inch movement at the top of the lever and by shining a torch into the 'innards I see that the lever has not yet entered into the fork of the steel plunger, so maybe there isn't a ball between the rod and the plunger coz the rod is the right length. I can't remove the outer half of the gear box (I've tried) so would it matter if I rolled another ball down from the clutch end, has anyone got a problem with 2 balls? as there may already be one within.

cheers David

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:19 am

Well, it's not an ideal solution, but it should be alright. Why can't you get the gearbox cover off?.Edited by - Biscuit on 07 Sep 2006 09:19:39 AM

Steve Martin · Post by **Steve Martin** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 1:43 pm

Hi David. Having said earlier that 1/8" free movement at the lever end equates to 1/32" at the fork contact, ie a ratio of 4:1; a missing 1/4" ball would account for an inch of movement at the lever end. Just remove the rod from the clutch end, pop in a 1/4" ball, replace the rod, and using finger pressure on the rod end, play around with the adjuster again, to see if the rod projects an appropriate amount with the lever in the right travel range. Then re-assemble everything and test it. I'd be dissappointed if that didn't sort it.
Best of luck, Steve.

wattsup · Post by **wattsup** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:27 am

Hello everybody,
The easy bit first. Biscuit, I tried everthing, with my limited knowledge, to remove the outer half of the gearbox. I've decided the previous owner used Araldite (if you have it over there - epoxy glue).
Now for the continuing saga. Extra ball down the tube, adjusted everything according to all the info I have, except, according to Haycraft, I'm supposed to tighten the adjustment screws right up then back of four complete turns. When I did that and operated the clutch lever the spring pressure plate just flexed in the centre, so I backed of the adjusting screws until the flexing stopped and the plates freed up. Assembled the chain case then went to bed. Nice pool of oil under the chain case the next day, so dissassembled chain case and refitted it. Left it over night - one spot; nothing to worry about. I have had the cylinder re-sleeved - new piston - new bearings all around and God forbid, a Mikuni carb. so the motor starts and runs magnificently. Pulled in the clutch lever, panic stations, a banging noise that gets louder the more you pull in the clutch, its definitely not coming from inside the primary chain case, but seems to be coming from the gearbox end. If I push the clutch operating lever with my finger it chatters quite badly. I've cured the sticky clutch plate sindrome but know I have something worse. Any one any suggestions?
David

good-hifi · Post by **good-hifi** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:31 am

Hi David

The clutch cable makes no difference to setting the clutch up.

When you set the clutch up you are ensuring that the distance between the clutch adjuster and the release bearing/plunger is as it should be. The adjustment of the clutch cable is just to ensure that the clutch is not slipping.

It seems odd that with what you have just done the rod is not moving since it must have been moving before if you were able to operate the clutch.

Why not stick something FAR longer than the rod into the clutch mechanism to see if that moves. Adjust the cable so that there is NO free play and with the release lever in the fully released position. If the pseudo rod does not move then you have no choice about stripping the gearbox down further.

Re the ball, why not tip the bike to the left first to see if a ball is already in there as it should roll out, assuming it is smaller than the diameter of the release rod shaft. I don't know if it is or not but if it isn't you won't get another one down there anyway.

Seems there is something else not quite correct here.

You don't say what it is that prevents you from removing the outer case.

Cheers