AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Hello, can anybody give me some tips for removing the rocker box from my 1947 16M? I removed the oil pipe and all the bolts but the cover won't clear the frame and inlet valve spring. Now I'm guessing I should've turned the engine so the valve springs were fully compressed?

I'm open to suggestions for the tricks of the trade...but I think you're all going to tell me that I need to bolt it back down and turn the engine?


A Haynes Manual with pictures would help

Thanks
Geoff

GeoffR wrote: I removed the oil pipe and all the bolts but the cover won't clear the frame and inlet valve spring. Now I'm guessing I should've turned the engine so the valve springs were fully compressed?

Maybe I'm missing the point but don't see how that would help as the springs would extend as the rocker cover bolts were loosened

A Haynes Manual with pictures would help

Have you got the manuals? (or do you always walk like that? ).

If not they're here:
http://archives.jampot.dk/

Here you are Geoff, to save you the trouble I've looked it up from the link (under 'Books') that I gave you for the Workshop Manual here:
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Workshop ... dition.pdf

It says, on Page 85:
Rockers AWAAAAY...........!!! hopefully.

just to add to Neville's comments you can fit replacement valves that are longer and don't need the hardened caps . from memory if you look up G&S valves catalogue on line they list the valve length without hardened caps

Valves are not easy to come by, Exhaust valves in particular. I picked up a carrier bag full of NOS at a jumble not so long ago. All were inlet valves. Needless to say they soon went when I had ID them. Club snapped up any I had over and they are now gone.

My personal experience is (56G80S) that it's best to have the piston at TDC. This ensures no pressure on the pushrods / rocker bolts etc when refitting and make the job easier. When refitting need to have the two rocker bolts in situ; from memory the long ones that hold the head steady as they are "difficult" to get in past the top tube once the box is located. I think I use an elastic band or insulating tape round them so they don't drop and foul the gasket.

Or perhaps my memory fails me yet again.

I'd know what to do when the job is in front of me.

Johnny B

Thanks for the replies, especially Spriddler. I followed the instructions and it was easy! Now all I need to do is get a new gasket...and a couple of bolts with threads on them because mine are pretty 'streamline'.

Thanks again all. I'll be posting again soon when I can't the thing back together