1940 G3WO project assembly help

Information relating to the Matchless G3 or AJS Model 16 350cc Heavyweight
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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby Rob Harknett » Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:05 am

I do not think there should be fork bushes. Unless some one has bushed them to take up wear. It may take time to get assembly correct. First you have to get the opposite side to the fork damper screwed in and locked up. So the damper side will then fit right that end. You must have that right so the damper knob will take up the horizontal play with not too much pressure on the star spring. The steering damper knob will stiffen up vertical movement. Too loose the spring will be bounce too freely. Also the forks will shudder when braking. So the steering damper will remove a lot of spindle free play. Check the number of plain steel washers you are using is 8 and where you have fitted them. This is important as they also take up side play, so need to be correct thickness washers.

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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby JagLite » Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:29 pm

Mick D wrote:Hi

I have another version of that thread cleaning tool and four thread restoration files - there are very few male threads I can't restore, (I like to keep original parts where possible).

For restoring female threads these carbon steel taps are more than adequate and good value:

https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-die ... 0taps-dies

Regards Mick

Excellent tool site, thanks.
I will make a list of bolt sizes on the bike and order some taps and dies. :beer:
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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby JagLite » Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:40 pm

Rob Harknett wrote:I do not think there should be fork bushes. Unless some one has bushed them to take up wear. It may take time to get assembly correct. First you have to get the opposite side to the fork damper screwed in and locked up. So the damper side will then fit right that end. You must have that right so the damper knob will take up the horizontal play with not too much pressure on the star spring. The steering damper knob will stiffen up vertical movement. Too loose the spring will be bounce too freely. Also the forks will shudder when braking. So the steering damper will remove a lot of spindle free play. Check the number of plain steel washers you are using is 8 and where you have fitted them. This is important as they also take up side play, so need to be correct thickness washers.


Ahh, I only have the article on girder forks from the archives and it is for similar forks, not Matchless specific.

I certainly could not tell if there are bushes on there but if there are, they are so thin it is like two sheets of paper.
And how they could be installed with that thickness without damage.
The small amount of movement is probably from the slight wear on the spindles.

The article shows the plain washers between the cross tubes and the links which is where I put them (including three washers I have on hand that are not the correct size).
I don't think there should be washers between the links and the nuts.
I am trying to find exploded parts diagrams of various girders to see what is common.

It is interesting to see how little tension on the damper knob needs to lock the forks.
Of course that is without the wheel on and the weight of the bike and rider.
Once it is riding it will take more tension but it is interesting to see how well it works.
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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby JagLite » Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:38 am

The spindle for the suspension damper has a groove (key-way?) cut into it but I didn't find anything that appears to lock in there.
Anyone know why it is there? Picture:

Image

I put the wheels on the truing stand:

Image

Image

The rear is straight but the front has a bit of wobble in it.
I don't have a spoke wrench small enough to fit the spoke nipples so that is one more tool on the list.
Then I will find out if the spokes will loosen up or break... :?:

Here is something funny.
As mentioned before, the bike was last registered for the road in 1998.
Take a look at the tires:

Image

One rim is rusty, one is excellent:

Image

Getting new tires and tubes.
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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby JagLite » Mon Jan 14, 2019 3:56 pm

Very slow progress continues.
I turned the rear fender over yesterday for the first time.
I doubt the fender mounts are factory correct...

Image

Image

They appear to be copper tubing hammered flat.

I installed the forks with new bearings and bearing cups top and bottom.
I found 4 new spindles for the fork links but they are each about an inch too short.
Interesting, but not for these forks so I used the old ones.
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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby Rob Harknett » Mon Jan 14, 2019 6:04 pm

Bit of a bodge there I'm sure you should have a U bridge. Easily made as I've done it with simple tools. But holes not being in line will need filling and re-drilling. I would not bother doing that until you come to fit the Y rails. You can then offer them up to the guard. I am sure these would be vertical. Check how they look on pictures.

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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby Rob Harknett » Mon Jan 14, 2019 6:22 pm

JagLite wrote:The spindle for the suspension damper has a groove (key-way?) cut into it but I didn't find anything that appears to lock in there.
Anyone know why it is there? Picture:

Image

I put the wheels on the truing stand:

Image

Image

The rear is straight but the front has a bit of wobble in it.
I don't have a spoke wrench small enough to fit the spoke nipples so that is one more tool on the list.
Then I will find out if the spokes will loosen up or break... :?:

Here is something funny.
As mentioned before, the bike was last registered for the road in 1998.
Take a look at the tires:

Image

One rim is rusty, one is excellent:

Image

Getting new tires and tubes.


The spindle for the suspension damper has a groove (key-way?) cut into it but I didn't find anything that appears to lock in there.
Anyone know why it is there? Picture:
Look on the parts list I'm sure I suggested would help http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Spares_l ... 0_G80C.pdf
Look for a special washer in the forks parts pictures pt. no. AFF 100, the tab in the centre hole will fit in the slot, get it the right way up, note the top will match the bottom of the damper knob. Dished shape and two notches.

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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby JagLite » Mon Jan 14, 2019 7:42 pm

Thanks Rob,
Now I see it!
I've been looking at my parts book but it doesn't have the parts pictures, just a list of the parts with minimal descriptions.

It really helps to have the part pictures.
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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby Rob Harknett » Mon Jan 14, 2019 10:51 pm

JagLite wrote:Thanks Rob,
Now I see it!
I've been looking at my parts book but it doesn't have the parts pictures, just a list of the parts with minimal descriptions.

It really helps to have the part pictures.

36 was the last Matchless prewar parts list illustrated, next illustrated was WD G3L. Both these parts list may give clues or still use the part you may be looking for.
http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Sus ... h_Talk.pdf
The 36 parts list may be confusing, see above Sunbeam forks which at the time was AMC, it has a flat washer. That washer AFF 100 going under the steering damper knob, not the fork damper knob. Check your damper knobs also, steering damper knob may have the two cut outs at the bottom, fork damper knob just flat. Not sure if they do differ, but I do believe fork has the plain washer, steering damper AFF10 under it. So another question, why has your fork spindle stud got the slot for the washer tab. Perhaps because it is actually the steering damper stud. Please check this out. This Webb forks parts list may also give clues in the notes of setting up forks. http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Sus ... ochure.pdf

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Re: 1940 G3WO project assembly help

Postby JagLite » Tue Jan 15, 2019 4:48 am

Hi Rob,
I searched through the parts boxes and found another AFF 100 washer.
Both the steering and fork damper knobs have the grooves in the bottom to catch the special washer, and both the steering and fork spindles have the groove machined in them.
I need to get the spring washers for them as I haven't found any new or old.
So far everything looks good and moves smoothly as it should.
I haven't installed the main spring yet, I won't put that in until I am going to put the wheels on and I have a lot to do before that.
All good fun after work to spend an hour or so in my shop.

Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.
James
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