Page 4 of 8

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 11:00 pm
by g80csp11
if you are close to Russell Motors in Clapham junction , its easy by train and just next to the station
by appointment Les will do the crank and bush while you go for a cup of tea

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 8:33 am
by Mick D
Hi

Sorry to sound like the harbinger of doom, but the flywheel shafts are, by design, press fits in the wheels, you say the drive side shaft is now loose which indicates damage to the shaft and or the wheel. This damage will have created a misalignment of the crankpin to the con rod and hence my concern over the state of the big end, (you will probably get away with the small end). With the drive side loose, the timing side bush well worn and the oil pump drive broken it's possible that the timing gears have been under undue pressure, check them carefully.

I don't know if oversized shafts are available but that may be an option to repair the damage on the drive side.

Regards Mick

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:00 am
by SPRIDDLER
g80csp11 wrote:if you are close to Russell Motors in Clapham junction , its easy by train and just next to the station
by appointment Les will do the crank and bush while you go for a cup of tea
Les supplied and fitted a new big end and drive side axle for my single and replaced the con rod as on mine the big end eye was oval.
All done exactly as Peter said, whilst I went for a brew.
He uses the original factory tooling which he and his dad rescued ('and several vanloads of parts') from the Plumstead factory when it was cleared out.

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:59 pm
by willowbedone
Thanks for all helpful advice I've discovered that the drive side flywheel is well worn and will need replacing I have contacted Ken De-groome who has all the parts to repair it .So it's off to Ken crankcases as well and will come back sorted :P :P

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 4:22 pm
by clive
Does this mean I can delete your wanted ad then? Adverts Editor

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 5:39 pm
by clanger9
Sounds good! Glad to hear you've found the parts you need.
Ken will do a top quality job, it'll be as good as new once you get it back. :beer:

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 8:40 pm
by willowbedone
Yes all good I find it sad though that there are not many firms / people left who can carry out this type of technical work
Maybe I'm getting old

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 5:11 pm
by willowbedone
All good delivered crank and cases to Mr Ken De-Groome .Ken dismantled the crank whilst I was there the only part salvageable is the con rod ! crank pin and axle nuts were not very tight resulting in wear to flywheels Ken has sorted flywheels axles And I ordered a new big whilst there. I was very impressed with Ken's knowledge and his skills
It's good to know that when I collect the crank that all will be perfect :D

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 6:09 pm
by willowbedone
Tomorrow I'm of to ken de-groome to collect the assembled bottom end Wednesday looks like an enjoyable day in the garage rebuildng the bike Next thing will be cam timing and ignition timing Do I time the inlet cam using the g3 marks or not Anyone who has done this ? Is it an improvement or will it cause any troubles

Re: no oil returning to the tank

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 6:21 pm
by SPRIDDLER
willowbedone wrote:Do I time the inlet cam using the g3 marks or not Anyone who has done this ? Is it an improvement or will it cause any troubles
Good news, Ian. Be sure to liberally (engine) oil all parts as you assemble the barrel/head etc., especially the bearings and oil pump plunger. Anneal the copper head gasket (even/especially if it's a new one). Not wishing to teach Granny, so forth, but fit the barrel and head after installing the bottom end.
Follow the instructions in the Owners or Workshop Manuals and also have a look at this excellent article on cam settings which also refers to using the 500/350 marks, although I've never felt the need do it:


http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Gen ... e_Dots.pdf

This article by a one-time member 'ITMA' is very worth a read before re-assembly:

http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Spe ... hanics.pdf

And:
I would fit the crankcase oil unions whilst the engine is out. Also the oil pump plunger and its end plates and the crankcase breather which are all difficult to access later.