AJS & Matchless Owners Club

That's interesting as I've got the oil level too just under the inspection hole, brill I'll try that thank you.

I put PTFE tape around mine before I put the metal band on - bit tricky but it seems to work for me

Get a Buckingham chain case lip seal, the advert for them is on the adverts page of the Jampot

RL wrote:Get a Buckingham chain case lip seal, the advert for them is on the adverts page of the Jampot

Are these any different to the "T" section seal available from the club spares?

I use the "T" section seal on both my tin cases (G3 and M18). If you take your time fitting them and I can recommend tapping the alloy band into position with a rubber mallet, you can get a perfectly acceptable seal. I get the occasional drip from them but with old and bent tin covers, it's unlikely that you'll get a perfectly oil tight joint.

For the definitive method of securing the *steel* chaincase, see this post from 2005:

http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1608



Those of you who remember ITMA will understand the difference between a tin and steel chaincase!!!!

Tommy, sealing these cases requires attacks on many fronts (and rears). The article by ITMA was most helpful to this reader and a friend coached me on using common silicone RTV sealant to create a lasting and reusable sealing lip. Years ago I stumbled on using common felt fabric to seal the opening on the rear half of the cover and now enjoy a completely oil tight case that is easily resealed. A piece of 1/16" thick wool felt from a fabric store will work wonders.

Spending some time on getting the covers flat was handsomely rewarded. Rather than tallow to seal the case halves, I built up a lasting reusable silicone lip. Grease a flat sheet of glass, apply a thick bead of RTV on the clean and degreased inside of the chain case and after laying the chain case flat on the greased glass plate, allow a few days for the silicone to cure. Note, RTV silicone cures by absorbing moisture from the air, so dribbling some water into the 'inside' of the cover will speed curing. When the silicone has cured, trim the excess silicone from the outside of the cover and carefully lift the cover from the greased glass plate. Treat the mating half of the chain case to a similar silicone sealing face.

Since an oil leak from the back cover looks much like a leak on the mating faces, you might want to try this method of sealing around the two openings for the dynamo and the clutch. Once you have adjusted the dynamo and clutch chain tension, fitting a close fitting felt sheet is childs play. Below are several photos. Why does this work? Mainly capillary action. A drop of oil landing on the felt will lead to absorption. Once the felt sheet is saturated, a drop landing on the top of the sheet will cause a drip falling from the bottom of the sheet and capillary action ensures the oil remains INSIDE the chain case.
A thin smear of Silicone O-Ring Grease (NOT ADHESIVE...) helps the two lips seal. I'm using the common U-shaped rubber band, and the alloy band is tightened just enough to display a proper fit. I do ensure the alloy band was well smoothed with 320 grit Wet N Dry sand paper where it contacts the rubber, and silicone grease is applied to both sides of the rubber band to allow all to cinch up smoothly.
Happy Sealing
Dick

I used a rubber seal mushroom shaped, Buckingham, I think but the damn thing still leaked, so I had my own idea, that was to use an old bicycle inner-tube cut length wise, roughly 3/4" wide, super glue inner tube strip together, getting the length correct and fitting this on the outside before fitting the alloy outer clamp, this enabled me to clamp it slightly tighter, which did the trick for me on the G9 I cannot say whether this would work for a G3 etc, as you still have the dynamo to contend with. HTH.

Regards Flash