AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Hi Rob, if you go to "Home >> Pictures >> New Pictures " you will see them.

Hi Rob, sorry I thought I put them in 'Post War Singles' but as you say they are not there. I have only just read your post, but Duncan has already found them so I hope this is OK for your needs as they are full size. If the pictures are not suitable let me know and I will upload some more. Finally feel free to use anything I have posted on the topic.
(just looked again for my pictures, somehow I put them in 'Classic Road Machines')!

What an interesting and useful topic. I plan (ha ha) to do some "front end" work this winter. Hope to fit a new wheel rim as the Dunlops are quite corroded internally, re-visit the fork seals (nearside one weeping) and check the corrosion where the fork tubes enter the bottom yoke. There was some when I last did the seals and want to re-assure myself. I did have some exceedingly slight roughness in the front wheel bearing and followed this thread as I had thought of replacement but following a clean, regrease all seems good.

But in the future, who knows? And now there is guidance for everyone who needs it - great job.

Johnny B

LynP wrote:Hi Rob, sorry I thought I put them in 'Post War Singles' but as you say they are not there. I have only just read your post, but Duncan has already found them so I hope this is OK for your needs as they are full size. If the pictures are not suitable let me know and I will upload some more. Finally feel free to use anything I have posted on the topic.
(just looked again for my pictures, somehow I put them in 'Classic Road Machines')!

Thank you Duncan, I found the pictures.

Lyn, sadly the pictures are very small files, one is only about 3kb, will enlarge before going out of focus as big as a postage stamp. Do you still have the full size files you can send. I can clean crop etc quite easy, perhaps even sharpen a bit. You can send to prewar@jampot.com

56G80S wrote:What an interesting and useful topic. I plan (ha ha) to do some "front end" work this winter. Hope to fit a new wheel rim as the Dunlops are quite corroded internally, re-visit the fork seals (nearside one weeping) and check the corrosion where the fork tubes enter the bottom yoke. There was some when I last did the seals and want to re-assure myself. I did have some exceedingly slight roughness in the front wheel bearing and followed this thread as I had thought of replacement but following a clean, regrease all seems good.

But in the future, who knows? And now there is guidance for everyone who needs it - great job.

Johnny B

Johnny. Note this topic is for Andrew Engineering wheel bearing replacements. They are quite different to the original tapered adjustable bearings you may find in your bike.

Hi Rob, I don't think my present photos of the bearings will be suitable, so I will take more tomorrow and send them to you.

LynP wrote:Hi Rob, I don't think my present photos of the bearings will be suitable, so I will take more tomorrow and send them to you.

Thanks Lyn, of the 4 pics sent this evening are fine. I have photo shopped and resized one to about 650kb. See below. It will blow up to see threads.
There were some other small additional parts in your first pic posted here. Can you do those also, the washer thickness may be of interest.
My rear wheel washer supplied was approx. 4 m.m. thick.

Hi Rob, I was not sure if the pictures got to you last night as my aol email kept giving me a 'message not sent try again later' I tried a number of times so I hope you did not get too many messages from me.
With regards to the extra parts, the small washer next to the nut and that nut should be the standard parts used on the outside of the brake side fork leg clamp, I think the washer pictured is too thin and I am going to replace both the nut and washer with new when I fit the bearing. The long spacer is part of the cassette system and is fitted
inside the large tube between the bearings, do you want the length of that part? Finally, the bearings come with rubber seals on both sides, the one to be placed on the inside is removed from the bearings to allow for future greasing though the normal hub nipple.

Sometimes they are working on website etc at night. I don't think std parts need measuring as they should be found assembled complete. Unlike any loose addition parts, that could get lost.

Rob, I've just been looking at the fitting instructions for the front wheel cassette bearings. As mine were fitted to the later alloy hub I did not study the diagram for earlier hubs, I see there is a new spacer supplied with the kit for those early hubs that is fitted on the brake plate side, this is not used in the later set up, I did not get one with the parts I bought so I can't help with the dimensions of that spacer, perhaps another member can.