AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Hi

Would you believe it - new tyre, new inner tube, new rim, new rim tape and after less than 200 miles my second ever puncture

The manual indicates the centre stand should be blocked up to aid the rear wheel removal and then the bike tilted and the wheel removed from the right, I'll be doing this alone so would prefer not to tilt the bike.

Can anyone suggest how high I should block the stand to allow me to remove the rear wheel, preferably without tilting the bike, (1961 G3 - one piece mudguard).

Need to get back out in this good weather.

Regards Mick

Hi Mick

I do mine by placing a piece of wood - not too thick, about an inch or so, under the RH side. The bike is then tilted, but not unduly so. Then tilt the bike back to the right, and place a piece of wood the same thickness under the LH side, so the bike is level again, but higher. Next, repeat step 1. Repeat as necessary. 2 pieces under each side was enough for my 650 twin, with the RH exhaust removed.

Malc

Have you or can you make a dual level, like a roadside footpath. Where you can put the bike on the upper level. Then swing the bike round so the rear wheel hangs over the lower level. You will need to weigh down the front or prop up nr swinging arm pivot. I've done mine alone blocked up about 3" under the stand. So the tyre dropped down just below the bottom of the guard above. Also laying the end of the left hand footrest on a brick, on grass. Have also done it on grass, on the stand and just dug a pit under the rear wheel.

Rob Harknett wrote: Have also done it on grass, on the stand and just dug a pit under the rear wheel.

Rob no one is going to dig a pit just to remove a rear wheel, lets move with times jack the bike up and use
two axel stands under the swinging arm. 😂

G15 Roy wrote:

Rob Harknett wrote: Have also done it on grass, on the stand and just dug a pit under the rear wheel.

Rob no one is going to dig a pit just to remove a rear wheel, lets move with times jack the bike up and use
two axel stands under the swinging arm. 😂

Wont fit in my tool box Roy, even if I had them. Which I have not. Most punctures I have had, I got while riding the bike on the road. Perhaps miles from home, the tyre not pump up to go far. Let alone back home to mend just a puncture, when on touring on holiday. I did once dig down in a field, about 3" by 12" with a tyre lever. Just enough to pull the wheel out sideways. With the bike on its stand on a bump in the ground. That was a road side puncture repair, I only had my brother with me who was about 6 years old. I've never had jacks and axel stands at home. I have used bits of wood handy. Then built up with wood under the stand to raise the bike up. More scrap wood to prop up the back end. If none of that available, like when on the road, I have just laid the bike on its side. Had to do it so in the 50's. Would do it now if I really had to. I would be back riding the bike long before the AA came to take me home, just to repair a puncture using axel stands and jack. Which I do not have and never really needed. I called the AA once soon after leaving a Finchingfield section meet. 5 hours before I got home. Then about 30 mins once home to fix the puncture just laying the bike on my lawn.

Get a ramp with a removable section. Drop the wheels down and back up.

I have just added one of these to my tool kit: But I am struggling to close the tool box lid, any suggestions?

Steady chaps, you are talking about two situations one emergency and the other in garage.

I've done this both ways that have been quoted. With a very worn centre stand doing this with a QD rear wheel still wasn't straightforward. On the way to Celles sur Belle IJR did roughly what Rob first suggested using the ramp up to bus stop in the middle of nowhere but just by the roundabout that I fortunately was about to go round when the rear tyre deflated. Good job it didn't happen 5 seconds later.

In lock up using axle stands.

Johnny B

Duncan wrote:I have just added one of these to my tool kit:

At least you'll no longer have to hunt around for pot holes to stand in to save bending down for roadside repairs.
(You must've known I'd drag that old photo out....again!).

I saw a mechanic at mc Harris in Harlow jack up a modern bike with no centre stand. He only used one jack with the bike on its prop stand. So the bike was resting on prop stand front wheel and jack. The bike was well up in the air at the rear wheel end. So you should be able to also jack up an old bike the same way, just using a car jack, which you probably already have got. You are more likely to find some one with a car jack. You could only use a ramp at home, axel stands etc, after getting the punctured bike back home. I would rather not keep up with the times, do it on the roadside and be back on your bike in less than an hour. Just carry a spare tube. Repair the old tube at home to get you out of trouble before replacing the new spare tube.
But then I can recall the old days when you were on your own if you broke down. You had to cope on your own then with the minimum of tools etc. you could carry.
Never thought of using a bus stop or the likes with rear wheel hanging over the kerb. Would have been handy on the first bike I ever rode. A 1937 AJS, it had no stands. Had to lay it down on the ground to mend a puncture. Road side repair or at home. Only 16 then and had to learn how to cope alone without many tools. I knew how to mend a leaking petrol tank when I was about 4. I liked doing That????? Dad would give me a toffee to chew till it was soft. Then he'd stick the toffee on the leaking petrol tank.