Rear Wheel Removal - Puncture

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Re: Rear Wheel Removal - Puncture

Postby Rob Harknett » Mon Aug 06, 2018 9:45 pm

Duncan wrote:I have just added one of these to my tool kit:

At least you'll no longer have to hunt around for pot holes to stand in to save bending down for roadside repairs.

Hants Duncan and Dave..jpg

(You must've known I'd drag that old photo out....again!).
Great, but sods law you may get a puncture where there's no pot holes. Never the less, good tips.

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Re: Rear Wheel Removal - Puncture

Postby Mick D » Tue Aug 07, 2018 2:41 pm

Thanks All
Suggestions there to cover just about any eventuality - all filed away in the hope I never need them :beer:

After being unsuccessful at digging a hole in my concrete garage floor ;) I opted for MalcW's suggestion of progressively blocking up the centre stand - worked a treat :D

For the record I blocked up the centre stand by 2.75" which gave me plenty of room to remove the wheel.

Regards Mick

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Re: Rear Wheel Removal - Puncture

Postby 1608 » Tue Aug 07, 2018 3:25 pm

These days with recovery included with almost all Insurers its not worth the hassle of repairing at the roadside, and certainly not risking pinching the tube in doing so after all the effort. If I get a puncture en route to the JP rally I'll just get a recovery to the site and repair at my leisure with a glass of wine. In the garage at home there are two methods I have used and they are, make a ramp to push the front wheel up and then let the bike roll back onto a suitably high piece of timber under the centre stand. Or, place susequent pieces of timber under the left and then right feet of the centre stand to achieve the desired height. One could also place axle stands under the foot rests.

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Re: Rear Wheel Removal - Puncture

Postby bob121 » Tue Aug 07, 2018 3:57 pm

What about fitting an hinged rear guard.

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Re: Rear Wheel Removal - Puncture

Postby Rob Harknett » Tue Aug 07, 2018 5:42 pm

bob121 wrote:What about fitting an hinged rear guard.

The hinged guard was replaced with a pull off rear section. This is a boon if you have panniers fitted. Without too much hassel, the panniers come off still attached to the pull off rear end. You only need to drop the wheel down enough for it to clear the bottom of the guard, which the tyre rises up into. When I had my 55 G3LS almost new. Just using the centre stand was good enough to get the rear wheel out. There was about 3" rock on the stand then, to remove front or back wheel OK. I have little or no rock on the 55G3LS I have now. Telle's drop more??? Stand bent, worn ??? fittings bent warn likewise engine plate holes.???
Waiting for recovery in the event of a puncture??? If you have nothing better to do, continue a run, stay on holiday?? Then waiting 1 or a few more hours to abort what ever journey you may be making, to return home may suit many. To save digging up a concrete garage floor ( ha ha ) A few bricks would make a false floor. Remove a couple bricks to allow the wheel to drop down.

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Re: Rear Wheel Removal - Puncture

Postby g5wqian » Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:27 am

at home i will put my rear wheel overhanging the "step" into my garage where the gravel meets the concrete and this allows me to drop my deflated tyre out without removing tail section of mudguard .

i use the wider rim tape , some you can get is only 1" wide but i use 35mm width to cover the spoke nuts a bit more .

like you i had a puncture on a new tyre just a couple hundred miles after fitting it , thorn or something in road caused it .

what i have done now is fit a new thicker tube [ motocross type 2.5mm thick ] , you can buy michelin tubes which are thicker or can get motocross ones which are thicker wall .

in past some people would slit open an old tube and lay it over the other one inside a tyre to give it more thickness to guard against puncture .

i have put a bottle of "SLIME" into my tube now , it is american product , about £6 a bottle and a lot of people use this puncture sealant .

not to say it will stop you getting a puncture if its a big one but will at least give me a chance in event of a small object getting into the tyre and allowing me to get home and fix it .

easy to put the sealant into tube , you just squirt it from bottle into valve opening when tyre is deflated [minus valve] and just need to have the valve facing above centre line of wheel when putting it in .

if you have a few spare tubes about like i do it will only be a case of chucking the sealant filled tube away if you suffer a problem in future that means you cant use it after youd picked up something on the road , and then refit another tube etc .

i cant say if the sealant works with everything we may encounter but at least get a fighting chance on small objects that might otherwise cause a flat .

i am not overkeen on having my rear tyre go down quickly whilst im going round bends at 50mph , it was a bit hairy the other week when it happened to make it come to a controlled stop , a bit like trying one of those kids drifting scooters with the 2 vee shaped arms that swivel about on the back .

hopefully the sealant will give me better chance when having to stop in event of a puncture , if its does it will be worth the small cost and effort to put it in .


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Re: Rear Wheel Removal - Puncture

Postby mjf65 » Wed Apr 24, 2019 9:34 pm

I have used a rock under the front frame rail to prop my DR350 up on its side stand when I got a puncture in the middle of nowhere on a Wiltshire Byway. It's relatively easy as the Suzuki is nice and light and there is an enormous amount of clearance between the rear mudguard and the rear wheel. It's not so easy when everything is covered in gloopy mud though.


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