AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Duncan wrote:

I'm trying to minimise the clutch crunch going into gear one. Any ideas?

You could try transplanting a Yamaha engine and back end?


Check the clutch basket for wear and plates for burrs, Burman boxes are a littke less refined than AMC ones.

Just buy a Yamaha simples/

Hi Chris

If you have not done so already, check the cluch adjustment - pushrod first then cable. If that is ok then you need to check that the clutch outer plate is lifting squarely and if not, adjust the springs until it does. Unfortunately this means removing the primary cover unless you have a removable clutch dome. Also check that the primary chain is not too tight.
All covered in more detail on the archive site in the owners manual.

Jim

Cheers Jim, much appreciated.

spookefoote1956 wrote:Not sure why the brake being hydraulic or not (it is) makes much difference as I'm enquiring about the clutch lever .

Quite. I couldn't fathom why you mentioned the brake either......

spookefoote1956 wrote: Due to having a transplanted Yamaha front end, which in turn means disc brake, my levers are obviously of a more modern design.

Am I correct in thinking that you currently have matching Yamahaha levers fitted now (hydraulic brake and cable clutch) and that you want to fit a cable clutch lever with greater throw that matches cosmetically the hydraulic brake lever?

If you are really set on keeping the existing Yamahaha clutch lever you can increase the throw by having a cable to the short end of a 'see-saw' device (e.g. hidden under the tank) and another cable from the longer end of the see-saw device to the clutch. The throw will increase but so will the effort required.
Have you stripped and checked the clutch at all?

Have a look at the thrust dowel in the clutch lifting mechanism (in the gearbox end cover). If it's worn down the clutch won't lift properly. Do you hear a loud 'click' when you pull the clutch in? The Burman clutch is usually light than the AMC so you can get away with larger pivot centres than 7/8".
Dave.

Again thanks for the comments. There is no click. The clutch is an old 1930's type, 5 plate, 4 spring which has been modified with an adjuster screw and lock nut to allow for adjustment due to the other end being a B52 box. I'm going to post some pics and a video of the clutch rotating as there is some undulation which could explain things. Is it worth removing a plate taking it down to 4 plates like the 350's or am I risking considerable clutch slippage?

Following up on previous post, I find that, provided there is a decent engine idle speed and the clutch is good condition, the 7/8" pivot lever provides enough separation. I'm using the AMC box instead of the (correct for year) Burman. I also use a mix of SAE50 and ATF in the primary chaincase as it allows the plates to separate better.

The clutch is much less heavy with the smaller pivot centres measurement.

Johnny B

Interesting about the ATF. I know it's supposed to be a dry clutch but obviously the plates must get wet due to the oil on the primary chain.

Probably a silly question but is there meant to be a ball bearing between the gearbox and the clutch pushrod with a B52 gearbox. Do I just roll one down the mainshaft from the clutch end and it won't fall into the gearbox?

Oooops .... it is. I'll put one in tomorrow! Could explain a lot!