AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Greetings!

Was wondering if the handlebar studs (G2M-FF65) on a Matchless G3L are any special? Are the threads the same on both ends? What is the length?

Expert advice required!

No size given for that part. Its bound to be 26 TPI the nut end. Try a 26 TPI bolt where the stud goes in, if it does go in easy, it is of cause the same. If not its probably 22TPI. The part is not freely available it seems. You should be able to calculate the length. Perhaps a carb stud will have the correct threads?? if so you may be able to make a bit more thread one end and cut ends off as required. The part does have a new part number. It is this part number that would have been used by AMC and all, from approx. 1952 onwards. The new number is 012146. Club, Russels and AMC classic spares do not seem to have the part in stock. Perhaps you could use a bolt?

Assuming we are talking about the 4 bolt handlebar clip. The threads are not the same both ends. 26 cycle thread for the nut and the usual thread which AMC used to go into aluminium at the other 22tpi I think. EDIT I see however from your profile that your bike is 1941 not 48 to 50 so the above is not correct for your bike as the yolk is steel not aluminium. Helpful to include the year when asking for advice.

For the ali top yolk the thread into it is 1/4 whit, unusual as AMC usually used BSF. Whit is a far better thread into ali being more course and less likely to strip, why the factory used bsf on things like manifold studs and fork sliders is rather baffling.

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Workshop ... ndards.pdf Some changes were made to yokes, also some changes made after a certain engine number. This would not help much now, as your bike will probably not all be as it left the factory. Also parts should not be mixed. They should all match up to each other, for each change. The above book will give a lot of info not found in any other manual, sizes tolerances etc. etc. that WD bikes had to comply with. I have had used WD parts from a person who worked on WD bikes. I was told the parts were all still good to use. Some people looking at thee parts when I sold them at Jampot rallies said they were scrap. This book will also give acceptable WD tolerances for parts. So also good for you to decide if a used part is still good to use. It will also tell you how to test your bike, to the standards WD required. On the forum people with have different opinions about what is good or bad. So this book may act as a guide, as to what may be considered the correct opinion.

Thank you so much for all the advice. I will try various permutations and combinations this weekend. Sorry about not posting the year. This is a 1941 Model G3L.