AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Hello,

I am almost freaking out to get the chain guard mounted to my Model 18 AJS. Now that all the new paint is scratched, I wonder how to attach the front mounting. My assumption is, that there is a bolt coming from the top (how to get in there???) and a nut where it leaves the hole in the swinging arm. Is that correct? Or is the bolt coming from the bottom and the nut (Nyloc?) is in the chain guard top end (still not easy to reach)?

I am happy for any adivice, otherwise I might end-up with more than just scratched paint...

Cheers,

Christian

I put the bolt down from above, through the top bracket, through the hole in the swinging arm and then through the bottom bracket with a washer and nyloc nut to secure the lot.

This is a tricky bolt to fit. I do only use the standard fitting, not with nylock nut. Never had one come loose since 1956. The tricky part is getting the bolt in, which is via the top as advised. Not easy to hold the bolt vertical and line up through the bottom of the tube. Have you tried using, say a 4" nail, cut a length to suit. Being pointed, this will find its way in easier. Then push the nail out with the bolt, perhaps giving the nail a wiggle to allow the bolt to find its way through. I find this trick handy sometimes fitting awkward bolts washers and nuts nuts. Push the nail in first with washer and nut the other end. Push the bolt though, with the washer and nut on the nail, it may help getting those on the bolt.

Hi

Shouldn't the bolt go in from the bottom and be secured by a cage nut?
I see the club spares is out of stock of Pt No 023146 but if you look online they are not too difficult to find, you might need to go metric but if you're not a 'rivet counter' why not?

http://www.namrick.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh0000 ... 5?a3166990

Regards Mick

Perhaps I have got the wrong bike. I am relating to circa 1955. I do appear to have a lock nut fitted. I don't think I would put that bolt in through the bottom. Not only will it fall out if the nut does work loose. It will drop straight down on the chain. Perhaps cause a very nasty accident.

Hi Rob

Your concerns are well founded, however a dab of Loctite will secure the bolt in the nut and a cage nut will render fitting much easier - faffing around inside the chain guard is probably more likely to result in an under torqued bolt in my opinion.

I've been led to believe a cage nut is standard for my 1961 G3.

Regards Mi9ck

My m31 goes through the top. As I remember, the original was a square head so only the nut at the bottom needed to be spannered. Can't remember if the new replacement was the same or a normal bolt. Stupid idea is what I remember thinking.

You are correct Rob - for 1955 it goes in from the top and is a swine to fit. I'd have thought that fitting the bolt from the bottom would be a recipe for disaster if the bolt used was too long and the rear chain was too slack?

Reynard24 wrote:You are correct Rob - for 1955 it goes in from the top and is a swine to fit. I'd have thought that fitting the bolt from the bottom would be a recipe for disaster if the bolt used was too long and the rear chain was too slack?

I didn't have any problem getting the bolt in.... Maybe my hands are smaller than yours
With the bolt in and the nut done up finger tight, I could get a ring spanner on the bolt hexagon head and I did the nut up with a 1/4" drive socket on an extension up from below (and beside) the chain.

Mick D wrote:Hi Rob

Your concerns are well founded, however a dab of Loctite will secure the bolt in the nut and a cage nut will render fitting much easier - faffing around inside the chain guard is probably more likely to result in an under torqued bolt in my opinion.

I've been led to believe a cage nut is standard for my 1961 G3.

Regards Mi9ck

It is fiddly Mick. But on my old 55 G3LS, which I've had one of since 1956. I have always fitted it as it was when almost new. I only have small hands. So find it easier than some people perhaps. Like wise fitting the rear dual seat screw & nut. I can get my hands in OK. I don't use Locktite or stainless, so rust usually takes care of keeping nuts on.