AJS & Matchless Owners Club

spookefoote1956 wrote:Spot on. The only thing I would have done differently is loosened off the push rods instead of clamping as you will need to check at tdc that they just spin.

I actually tried that first and found it was still binding up a bit, so I had this old c-clamp that I sort of hated and thought, I could make a useful tool!

cfaber wrote:
He also mentions that you need the different rockers for that change. Is this the case? My concern was in Ken's instructions he didn't mention "turn the engine counter clockwise or clockwise" on the inline cam instructions, so I'm assuming counter clockwise.

Turn the engine backwards from TDC for the inlet cam, then forwards for the exhaust cam.

Using a lightweight inlet pushrod rocker is optional, not a requisite for using the 350 timing marks. Both give a slight performance increase which is additive if you do both.
John

Gentlemen and Ladies I submit for your consideration:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tg_TkNp56oA

Nice one. It must be a lot lighter without the tank.

It's a new fuel saving strategy

Quick question, am I missing a spacer here?

Hi

No, the nut above the washer sets the position of the brake plate and the outer one locks it and the brake plate in position.

Regards Mick

And the dust cover washer just flaps in the breeze?

Hi

You appear to have a full width alloy hub, which is not standard for a 54 18S. In this configuration the oil seal cover is retained by a split ring, suggest you refer to manuals and lists relevant to the parts you have.

Regards Mick

Mick D wrote:Hi

You appear to have a full width alloy hub, which is not standard for a 54 18S. In this configuration the oil seal cover is retained by a split ring, suggest you refer to manuals and lists relevant to the parts you have.

Regards Mick

So there is a split ring retaining a cover already and I'm pretty sure the PO didn't replace the hub.