AJS & Matchless Owners Club

SPRIDDLER wrote:As Rob said you will probably need some assistance which you will get here (if you join the club!!)

Andrzej. If you join the club you will contribute to the cost of running this website which is funded by members' subscriptions and from which you have already had much help - and you will be able to access much more information and send emails/private messages.

SPRIDDLER wrote:so before you get started it would save any future confusion if you advise the frame number, engine number, gearbox number and confirm the type of carburettor that you have.

I didn't request this information for my benefit.

I'll join the club, promise:) I edited first post in this topic, adding engine and frame numbers, numbers of gearbox and carburetor must wait, garage is far away...

sztyga20 wrote:I'll join the club, promise:) I edited first post in this topic, adding engine and frame numbers, numbers of gearbox and carburetor must wait, garage is far away...

Well done!
Having the bike's identity numbers can save a lot of confusing or incorrect advice and answers to questions!

As mentioned, the website hosting is funded by members' subscriptions, the club is run entirely by volunteers, the website is maintained by volunteer Eamonn, and contains help provided by volunteers. Besides, as a Guest you only have a limited time to post on the Forums.

Later

sztyga20 wrote: //Added
This information could be usefull:
Frame No. 90260
Engine No. 19828
Gearbox No. (will be added in this month)
Carburettor type: (will be added in this month)

I've just seen your frame and engine numbers. The engine number doesn't seem complete. Check again next time you visit the bike! Engine numbers are stamped into the components. The raised numbers are only casting numbers (i.e manufacturer's component parts numbers).
The engine number should be something like 53/G3LS xxxxx
Here's one of mine: Please also check the frame number as according to my records (Roy Bacon's restoration book) all frame numbers until the end of September 1952 were just a number and stopped at 89501. After frame number 89501 (i.e. from October 1st 1952) he says all frame number were given an 'A' prefix before the number. Your frame number will be found in the position shown in the first photo (top left).

Engine number is correct,photo that you show comes from previous offer, after your advices i resigned from buy it. I checked my current frame number:

Why have you decided not to buy it?

The online dating information that you show is from the original factory records and were recorded when the bike was despatched from the factory. After 64 years the bike you are looking at may have different engine or frame numbers. Many bikes now have frame and engine numbers (and gearboxes and carburettors) which are different from when they were shipped from the factory.

It is only important to know the actual frame and engine numbers (and the type of gearbox and carburettor) so that when you ask for advice or search for parts or order parts you obtain the correct ones.

Whether to buy or not to buy also depends upon the price of it which only you can decide.

I am so sorry for the confusion (probably because of my English, sorry for that), but to make this clear:
First motorcycle (offer from Poland) had engine from 1954 G3LS, 82mm piston, double frame and was completly disassambled (including engine and crankshaft) - so this was a mix not less than 3 motorcycle (early G3LS, late G3LS & G80) - so I decided not to buy it, photo of engine that You show in from that offer

Next I've found G3LS from Sweden, 53/G3LS engine, single frame (frame number as I show above indicates that is also from 1953), the price was the same and I've bought it:) and we talking about this motorcycle.

I've bought first thing needed to restoration - tap and die set 26tpi (from india), it will be better save original inch studs, nuts and bolts. But why a lot of nuts (original) have metric 13mm diameter? (I'm not sure is metric, spanner 13mm is a bit tight but is possible to unscrew nut using it, contrary to 1/2 spanner while 9/16 is too loose). I've already applied to joint to the club:D

sztyga20 wrote:why a lot of nuts (original) have metric 13mm diameter? (I'm not sure is metric, spanner 13mm is a bit tight but is possible to unscrew nut using it, contrary to 1/2 spanner while 9/16 is too loose)

A 1/2" AF spanner is 12.7mm (and will be a very tight fit on a 13mm bolt head or nut) and a 9/16" spanner is 14.29mm (therefore it's too loose).
If my memory is good there were no AF sizes used by the AMC factory.
Most of the fixings on our bikes are Whitworth but there are also BSF, or some smaller bolts and nuts (often on electrical items) which are BA sizes. Some of these nuts and bolt heads are very close to metric sizes but the thread forms are not the same. The same set of spanners will fit the Whitworth and also the BSF nuts and bolts. (However, all sparking plugs are metric!! )
See this guide:

I've already applied to joint to the club:D

Well done. Worth every metric British penny

Hello Andrzej,
It is often difficult to find in Europe suitable tools for our British bikes.
If this can help you, I have bought :
1 set of 8 combination spanners BSW 3/8 to 9/16 SILVERLINE, by Priceminister for only 23.50 € including postage
1 Set of 8 hexagonal sockets (same range) 3/8 drive KOKEN from BACONSDOZEN @ £ 35.50 including postage.
Hexagonal sockets are a bit more expansive than 12 sides ones, but are far better to avoid scratching the nuts plating.
Silverline combination spanners are slim and very nice for a bike.
Caution, 26 TPI is quite the rule on our bike, but studs in aloy castings are generally 20 TPI. It is very important to know the exact thread of each part to avoid cross threads.
Regarding nuts, studs, bolts, screws, don't waste your time refurbishing the old ones : AMOC PARTS and others sell brand new fasteners, zinc plated, some chrome plated, and also in higthly polished S.S.
If your Indian taps en dies set is not complete (mainly 26 TPI Cycle) I can recommend Tracy Tools.
Cheers. J.N.

Hi Jean-Noel, I don't think you can say generally they use 20tpi in alloy as BSF is the usual thread in alloy and 5/16 BSF is 22 tpi.
Dave