Re: Fitting alternator and rotor to G12
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 1:31 pm
With the age of these motors it's reasonable to assume nothing. Check and re-check everything. You have to go back to basics.
I've seen rotors a long way from being central to the stator and they still work. Rotor widths do vary, some have recesses, some not.
It's easy to measure from the joint face of the outer cover to where the centre of the stator is. Then measure same from joint face of the inner to centre of rotor. Add, adjust or fit spacers inboard and outboard of the rotor to get it as near as you like. Make sure the rotor will be clamped before the nut runs out of thread on the shaft OR is likely to damage the breather. This also clamps the inner race of the drive side roller bearing to the crank web.
Throw away any tab washers – they are useless - they always turn and break the tab off. Clean threads on crank and in nut with petrol or brake cleaner and use Loctite. They did not have that in those days. Brilliant stuff for us British owners. I have not used tabs for 30 plus years. Lock engine and tighten nut with socket and 2 foot long strong arm (breaker bar). Or hammer impact wrench.
Measure total length from inner joint face to end of crank nut and determine the outer will fit without the nut boring a neat hole through it. Make sure there is enough clearance between the stator and the primary chain.
I've seen rotors a long way from being central to the stator and they still work. Rotor widths do vary, some have recesses, some not.
It's easy to measure from the joint face of the outer cover to where the centre of the stator is. Then measure same from joint face of the inner to centre of rotor. Add, adjust or fit spacers inboard and outboard of the rotor to get it as near as you like. Make sure the rotor will be clamped before the nut runs out of thread on the shaft OR is likely to damage the breather. This also clamps the inner race of the drive side roller bearing to the crank web.
Throw away any tab washers – they are useless - they always turn and break the tab off. Clean threads on crank and in nut with petrol or brake cleaner and use Loctite. They did not have that in those days. Brilliant stuff for us British owners. I have not used tabs for 30 plus years. Lock engine and tighten nut with socket and 2 foot long strong arm (breaker bar). Or hammer impact wrench.
Measure total length from inner joint face to end of crank nut and determine the outer will fit without the nut boring a neat hole through it. Make sure there is enough clearance between the stator and the primary chain.