AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Both my front brake and clutch cable on my Model31 are routed through the holes at the top of the forks with a grommet around them, I have never had problems with the steering lock, the front brake cable has a loop in it and bends more when the forks compress on applying the front brake. This tends to reduce the amount the brake lever is pulled against the bars, it has been this way ever since I have had the bike without giving any problems or poor performance.

Ah but Mike, how much better could it be?

Contemporary photos seem to show the cable going through the top and bottom yokes. It works well enough at the moment but if I am going to replace the cables on the bike as part of my work I was curious to see whether what was fitted was "right" or is simply another bodge.
Like most older machines as soon as you start taking them apart you uncover lots of little bodges that PO have carried out over many years. If possible I do prefer to try and undo them wherever possible and put back to original.

I have ordered up carious cable colours tonight as well as 5/16 BSC nuts and some electrical supplies, plus a new PRS8 switch to continue on with the rewire to 12v.

The plan is as shown, although some cable colours may change depending on what I have stripped from an old MG car loom and what I managed to order tonight.However I am not to worried about this, previous to the rewire all the wiring was the incorrect colour and the bike didn't charge, at least mine will be reasonably accurate colours (even if everthing is backwards because of the other polarity) and should work

I've locked the front brake Duncan, is that good enough?

Hi

I'm not sure how the front brake cable can limit steering range if it's fed through the top and bottom yokes - the route will keep it away from the yoke frame interface. Clutch, throttle, air or ignition yes, but not brake surely.

Regards Mick

I've locked the front brake Duncan, is that good enough?

Too right, want to swap?

Got another query, the bike is pretty much rewired but the new PRS8 switch I ordered turned up with damaged threads so awaiting a replacement.
Just how strong should the magnets be on the stator? I am going to replace the coils for an uprated 12v version but the stator magnets seem strong, but how strong should they be?
Also what way round does the washer go that holds the stator on? its dished but doesn't obviously sit either way round.

PS Someone PM's me about the bike as a PO, but for some reason I cannot PM and can't find a way to fix this, how do I get this ability on the firum?

Spock wrote:...
PS Someone PM's me about the bike as a PO, but for some reason I cannot PM and can't find a way to fix this, how do I get this ability on the firum?

PM facility is not available to guest members so to use it you have to join the club. Your time as a guest member on the forum is limited anyway to 3 months. If you are already a member you need to sign in using your membership.

Hi

I'm assuming you have your terminology mixed up here - sorry if I've jumped to the wrong conclusion.

The bit which contains the magnets is the rotor and it is secured to the crank shaft with either a nut and lock washer or a pair of nuts, there is a washer under the nut(s) but I was not aware it is shaped in any way other than flat, (from memory it is about 1/8" thick).

The stator is the ring of six coils mounted on a laminated iron core which fixes to the outer chain case with three studs - this contains no magnets but may exhibit a small amount of residual magnetism, (which is of no consequence).

If you do have a domed, (Bellville), washer it should be orientated so as the top of the dome goes against the nut / bolt head.

Regards Mick

If you can lift the rotor up using a spanner, it's magnetism is OK to use. Older rotors were smaller so make sure it matches the new stator or it won't be very powerful.