Are the forks on my G2CSR what are known as heavyweights or teledraulics or 'Francis style'? My manual states the correct fork oil is SAE 20, but then later says to refill with 70cc. of SAE 30.
Searching the forum tells me I need 6 fluid ounces per leg of SAE 20... Which tallys with the actual forks on my bike? Once they've been drained is refilling as simple as unscrewing the top caps after unweighting the forks and tipping the stuff in? Would rather not have some springs fly out and spear me in the eye
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Last edited by BultacoBen on Fri Jul 01, 2016 7:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
http://www.ben-eddings.com 1966 Matchless G2 CSR scrambler
1986 Suzuki DR600 long-range explorer
1971 BSA B50T street tracker
Make sure the pinch bolts on the bottom yoke are tight beforehand although my personal experience is that the fork tubes are a tyke to shift anyway - but you never know..........
Oh dear, forks appear to be in fact totally solid, no movement in them at all.
I've found Ken de Groome's excellent article on how to strip and rebuild teledraulics, which seems to involve all manner of vices, blow torches and vigorous movements...
Any suggestions on what seizing to what is likely to have caused this stiffness and how far into Ken's rebuild I'll have to go to remedy it?
My initial inspiration is to take the wheel off and attempt to twist the lowers in order to loosen them from this seizing. Is this hopelessly optimistic...?
http://www.ben-eddings.com 1966 Matchless G2 CSR scrambler
1986 Suzuki DR600 long-range explorer
1971 BSA B50T street tracker
You said dregs of oil came out?? That does not sound like a few fluid ounces. Did you pump the forks to force out oil? If they are seized & don't appear to have oil in them, try and pump them with oil in to un seize them. You may be lucky. This may be a daft question>>>> Are those clips round the gaiters tight on the chrome tube at the bottom preventing the forks from going down??? Normally the top shroud would cover over a lot of the chrome tube. Do the forks go down when the bike is off the stand.
Rob Harknett wrote:You said dregs of oil came out?? That does not sound like a few fluid ounces. Did you pump the forks to force out oil? If they are seized & don't appear to have oil in them, try and pump them with oil in to un seize them. You may be lucky. This may be a daft question>>>> Are those clips round the gaiters tight on the chrome tube at the bottom preventing the forks from going down??? Normally the top shroud would cover over a lot of the chrome tube. Do the forks go down when the bike is off the stand.
Dregs came out when I undid the drain nut, and a little more spurted when I tried pumping the forks. 6 fluid ozs going in didn't fit so I realised it must not all have drained. Pumping the damper rod from the top got the rest out, which must have actually been not far off 6flozs in each. Pretty nasty looking stuff... Milky looking with a black sediment.
The gaiter question may not be daft... Will whip them off and have a look. I think just one of the forks is likely to be seized since trying to pump the forks did force a very little spurt of oil out the drain on one side but not the other. Will report back once I've got the wheel and gaiters off.
http://www.ben-eddings.com 1966 Matchless G2 CSR scrambler
1986 Suzuki DR600 long-range explorer
1971 BSA B50T street tracker
Hi bbenxe,
Don't wish to hijack your topic and afraid I can't offer any advice, rather that I read your posts with interest as the forks on my G3 are very stiff in action, although the po stated that they had been serviced and loosening the drain screw does show clean looking oil. Curiously when moving the bike around and swinging the bars back and forth, there's a soft 'click' sound and a feeling that something is loose somewhere.
I'm not sure if they're the same fork exactly and have tried one or two tips given here previously without success so will read on with interest to see how you get on.
Best of luck with the fix.
Steve
Keep shiny side up.
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