fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Information relating to the Matchless G2 or AJS Model 14 250cc Lightweight
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Janet
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by Janet »

I followed your instructions to get this far so you're doing alright as far as I'm concerned. I've knocked off for now to do domestic chores and will start again in the morning.
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Janet
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by Janet »

No doubt my next problem will be lack of availability of the required sprockets. :headbang:
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Ozmadman
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by Ozmadman »

Janet wrote:I've now got this far.
I have placed arrows at the position of six large screws. Do I remove all of them to take the rear case off? Will anything fall out of the engine if I take these out?
There are also some small ones but I think these only hold a cover over the rear chain.
Hi Janet, nothing will fall out when you take the casing off, undo the main 6 screws, the 3 small ones can be left as they just hold the small chain guard thing on. There is a gasket behind the cover where the 3 crankshaft screws are which you will need to replace when you put it all back and a felt ring in that casing where the gearbox shaft comes through which I would leave alone as a new one is nigh impossible to get back in the recess and was factory fitted before that circular tin housing was pressed into place. Once off you will see the gearbox sprocket which has a tab washer on it THE NUT IS LEFT HAND THREAD so undo it the opposite way, it will be tight so maybe put the chain back on, put it in gear and get someone to sit on the seat to keep the rear wheel on the ground. Here is a picture of mine before I took my box out and rebuilt it, had a bad oil seal leak as you can see, also if you look to the left where the back semicircle of the engine casing touches the circular gearbox casing you will see a nut with a hole in it, this is where the engine breather oil mist exits to lubricate the chain. Good luck

Paul
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Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by dogwheel »

Janet, I've only just seen this thread, in the past I have had the same sort of problem, which has proven to be down to an unevenly stretched chain, mind you, even if that were the problem, it would be unwise to fit a new chain without at least ensuring that the sprockets are in good nick. Don't forget to avoid Renold, unless it's stamped GB or UK.
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Ozmadman
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by Ozmadman »

Just a thought Janet, you have opportunity the change the gearing as you may be buying a new sprocket anyway. On my model 8 I changed my 18 tooth to a 19 tooth as most know 1st gear on these in horrendously low so that is improved and 50 mph and above (not been over 60) is more comfortable for the old girl. Not sure if the G2 is the same.

Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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clive
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by clive »

Les P H wrote:...bet Clive knows and is laughing at me! ...Les
.
I did know Janet has a lightweight but as I have never owned or worked on one I was keeping my head down. :mrgreen:
clive
if it ain't broke don't fix
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Duncan
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by Duncan »

Janet

If you are confident that the chain does not have a tight spot and the problem is occurring at a different point each time it could be something simple like a stone caught between the teeth of the sprocket.

You are cutting it fine for the NRR!

PS Time to put the new tax disc in too!
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Les Howard
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by Les Howard »

That's a marvelous photo that Paul (Ozmadman) has posted above...you can clearly see all the extra bolt/screw holes. So Janet, all looks easy and make sure you have the drip tray (or dustbin!) underneath to catch all that accumulated crud trapped inside....getting all that out should increase your bikes speed by a bit...ho ho....Les
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Janet
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by Janet »

Ozmadman wrote:Picture
Now that makes things so much clearer. A picture says a thousand words, as someone once said.
dogwheel wrote:Janet, I've only just seen this thread, in the past I have had the same sort of problem, which has proven to be down to an unevenly stretched chain, mind you, even if that were the problem, it would be unwise to fit a new chain without at least ensuring that the sprockets are in good nick. Don't forget to avoid Renold, unless it's stamped GB or UK.
The reason I discounted the chain as being the cause of the problem was because putting back the old one gave exactly the same symptoms, ie, three revolutions less 4 links of the chain came back to the bowstring effect.
Ozmadman wrote:Just a thought Janet, you have opportunity the change the gearing as you may be buying a new sprocket anyway. On my model 8 I changed my 18 tooth to a 19 tooth as most know 1st gear on these in horrendously low so that is improved and 50 mph and above (not been over 60) is more comfortable for the old girl. Not sure if the G2 is the same.
I've been over 70 on mine although not often. I've never felt 1st gear was a problem, but then I do go for days out round the North Yorkshire Moors, the Yorkshire Dales and, when I get up early, the Lake District. Bendy 1in3 gradients require something low. At the moment I'm just hoping that parts are available that will fit.
Duncan wrote:Janet

If you are confident that the chain does not have a tight spot and the problem is occurring at a different point each time it could be something simple like a stone caught between the teeth of the sprocket.
I wondered about that but have poked my fingers between all the teeth, which also seem to be the required number.
You are cutting it fine for the NRR!
Forget that. Since getting back from the IJR a fortnight ago, I've been trying to get the bike ready for the Jampot. I had no sparks, no electrickery, nothing. I wiped, wiggled and waggled the wires and connectors. I looked for bare bits that could have been shorting to earth. I looked for melted rubber connectors to the ignition and light switch ( I've been there before) I took the battery off, charged it up and put it back on. Still nothing. I repeated the whole process and was about to pull the chaincase off to see if the alternator had blown up when, with very little hope, I turned on the light switch and saw the ammeter showing a discharge. Hey, it may have been a death throe, but it hadn't expired yet. The light was so dim as to almost non-existent, but after much leaping on the kick-start, I was able to start the engine. Suddenly I had proper lights so I know the alternator is charging. I replaced the battery and the new one still seems to be holding a charge, so perhaps the old one was simply past it. I should have thought it would have shown some effect on emergency ignition, though.
PS Time to put the new tax disc in too!
I will when the lovely people at the DVLA send it, although I'm not too worried about that at the moment.
Les P H wrote:That's a marvelous photo that Paul (Ozmadman) has posted above...you can clearly see all the extra bolt/screw holes. So Janet, all looks easy and make sure you have the drip tray (or dustbin!) underneath to catch all that accumulated crud trapped inside....getting all that out should increase your bikes speed by a bit...ho ho....Les
I'm sure mine will be lovely and clean when I get into it. Or maybe not.
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Ozmadman
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Re: fault causing rear chain to go tight, slack, tight

Post by Ozmadman »

How's it coming along Janet?

Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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