AJS & Matchless Owners Club

iansoady wrote:Thanks Marty. Do you happen to know what the included angle of the fitting is - mine are a bit too rough to get an accurate figure.

I have forgotten the angle but contact John Epp on the above email, he will be able to help
Marty

56G80S wrote:Manual mag not SR1?

Johnny B

Yes it's something of a bitsa - the crankcases are stamped 54 which should make it an auto advance but it has the manually operated N1 fitted. I must say I rather prefer it anyway - helps with getting timing spot-on, also the timing cover looks much nicer without the bulge.

I've turned a couple of ends up and soldered them on to the pipes:





Not the best turning I've ever done, I suspect I needed different angles on the tools for copper. There seemed to be a lot of inclusions - tool would be cutting nicely then dig in.

I'm not sure about the included angles of the cones either but they have to be better than what came out. A nice coat of Wellseal and (hopefully) job jobbed. £6 for enough copper to make about 8 unions is cheap enough.

Pudding proof tomorrow when I put the oil back......

Nice job, Ian. John Epp has sold his last union ends , by the way. Don't for get to put some rubber tubing somewhere between the tank and the crank case, the vibration breaks the pipes , I have heard...
The faces of the nipples looks like 45 degrees to me, but is the nipple long enough to mate with the union and make a seal in both cases?
Dave(cf160)

Tool dig in??? tools sharpened for metal or wood dig in plastic's, and I'm told brass machines like plastic. So cutting edges are backed off. ?? cutting edge strikes material at 90 degrees, so will not grab and dig in..

Copper is "sticky" when machining, I use paraffin when machining it.

Rob C

cf160 wrote:Nice job, Ian. John Epp has sold his last union ends , by the way. Don't for get to put some rubber tubing somewhere between the tank and the crank case, the vibration breaks the pipes , I have heard...
The faces of the nipples looks like 45 degrees to me, but is the nipple long enough to mate with the union and make a seal in both cases?
Dave(cf160)

Yes, as my running gear is from a twin there's quite a long run of rubber between the pipes and the tank. I made the nipples 45 degrees as I couldn't find any way of measuring the mating parts and the bits I took out were a mess anyway. Yes, I made sure the taper actually contacted the mating part. Hopefully there'll be at least line contact and the Wellseal will take up any slack......

Rob Harknett wrote:Tool dig in??? tools sharpened for metal or wood dig in plastic's, and I'm told brass machines like plastic. So cutting edges are backed off. ?? cutting edge strikes material at 90 degrees, so will not grab and dig in..

Yes I think that was the problem - I just used a tool I'd ground for stainless and if I used anything more than a light (.015" or so) feed it did dig in. I also found it seemed to work better with a high spindle speed rather than slow.

I didn't use any lubricant either which might have helped....

I just though to complete the tale I'd show the ones I took off:



The feed one isn't too bad (apart from the gouge in it) but the return is an absolute mess. It looks as though someone tried to build up the cone with plumber's solder or similar.

BTW I'm quite surprised that the feed pipe is bigger internal diameter than the return - as the return side of the pump generally has double the capacity.

Tis bigger to give a higher volume flow rate via gravity whereas the return is pressure fed so can have a smaller diameter to shift the same amount of oil.