Strange it takes so long. I believe the club spares scheme used to only send 'export' orders once a week. If that's still the case that may be why it takes two weeks to get the bits so it would worth seeing if AMC Classic Spares have the bits as they despatch 'export' orders more frequently. Probably straight away if you call and explain the urgency to Linda or Stephen.
boyd wrote:Sorry forgot to add, putting the drop of petrol down the plug hole is the only bang i've got out of it lately, aside from that its just as if you were kicking it with the ignition off.
Hmm, you've a spark and compression. Disregarding the spring (which may be a pull-off spring from the A/R mechanism leaving it in the default 'advanced' position = backfires through carb) but bearing in mind that it fires with fuel down the plug 'ole I'd give particular attention to the pilot jet. In particular the tiny hole in the carb throat. It's easily blocked (more so since the addition of ethanol, and as you've already said the tank lining is iffy) and as you probably know the pilot is the fuel supply source for about the first 1/8th of throttle opening, i.e. when starting. Squirt WD40 or brake cleaner or whatever through it to verify that it is clear.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
boyd wrote:. I read that i need a tool to take it off... .
Take it from me.... you don't need a tool to pull off the ADV/RTD unit,
Yes, you can do it with an appropriately sized bolt but if it's on tight you need to tap the side of the bolt to break the two parts apart. I wouldn't recommend doing this often and it is much easier with the proper tool.
Hi Boyd, same problem on my son's G2; head gasket well and truly blown. Got a set from Russell's and putting a metal rule across the head can see daylight so have had the head skimmed as hopeful solution. After fitting new gasket suggest that head bolts are torqued down again after a couple of hundred miles. Good Luck!
robj3123+ wrote:Hi Boyd, same problem on my son's G2; head gasket well and truly blown. Got a set from Russell's and putting a metal rule across the head can see daylight so have had the head skimmed as hopeful solution. After fitting new gasket suggest that head bolts are torqued down again after a couple of hundred miles. Good Luck!
I had nightmares with copper gaskets, even a new one I had and after about 5 attempts and realising that I wanted to actually ride the thing during the summer instead of becoming an expert in how quickly I could get the head off and back on, I resorted to a composite and haven't looked back since. I put it on, torqued the 4 thick studs down to 35lb ft (don't do that with the other thin bolt that is by the channel for the push rods or you will strip it!!! just do that "short spanner tight". Then run it stationary for about 10 minutes at tick over with just a few revs until nice and warm and leave it until morning, re-torque the head(slightly loosen the nuts as they will tend to stick and cause a false reading on your torque wrench and re-torque them) go for a gentle run and leave again until cold (morning again) and then do it again. I know this is a pain in the neck having to remove the tank each time and take the rocker cover of but it's more of a pain having to replace head gaskets that won't seal. I would also be very wary of getting the head skimmed, there is hardly anything to skim before you get to the fins anyway plus any skimming of the head will reduce the "squash on the gasket unless you also take a similar amount off the spigot on top of the barrel!!
Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
I charged the battery last night,rechecked everything today, found a small bit of slimy residue in the bottom cover nut on the carb, sprayed wd40 though all the jets, put it back together and she fired up on the 2nd kick. Its riding better than ever, wondering if the advance retard was ever working properly now? Even the head gasket seems to be fine.
