Those L/ W forks

[Janet]

When you say the handlebars are slightly right hand down, do you mean they are lower on the right than the left, in which case the bar is probably bent. Alternatively, do you mean that with the front wheel pointing straight, the bar is pulled back as if turning, ie, if the bars are straight across, the wheel points to the left? If that is the case, your forks are twisted, usually because the top and bottom yolks yokes are not quite in line with each other. The mudguard acts as a brace to stop the forks twisting lower down but if the yolks yokes are out of line at the top it will not straighten the wheel in relation to the handlebars.

Edit: Yes, OK, so I've got egg on my face. Edited by - Janet on 18 Sep 2012 12:40:01 PM

[Ozmadman]

quote:
When you say the handlebars are slightly right hand down, do you mean they are lower on the right than the left, in which case the bar is probably bent. Alternatively, do you mean that with the front wheel pointing straight, the bar is pulled back as if turning, ie, if the bars are straight across, the wheel points to the left? If that is the case, your forks are twisted, usually because the top and bottom yolks are not quite in line with each other. The mudguard acts as a brace to stop the forks twisting lower down but if the yolks are out of line at the top it will not straighten the wheel in relation to the handlebars.


Thanks Janet, it's the second option. With the handlebars/top yoke straight the bike would turn slightly to the left. When going in a straight line the top yoke is slightly to the right as if turning. Can this be sorted by loosening the top nuts and pinch bolts etc and straightening it all up or is it new yokes?

Regards PaulEdited by - Ozmadman on 18 Sep 2012 08:29:50 AM

[Janet]

You should be able to straighten them up as you say unless the yokes themselves have been bent, which I doubt. Remember,½ a degree round at the yoke shows as quite a bit out of line when you're looking something the size of a wheel and mudguard.

[Colin Oakley]

Hi
Well my forks were polished and new seals fitted and it did the job.
So on went the new loom, Paul Goff regulator, new Wipacs, front tyre, some new paint, to the total of about £600. It will be in the Old Bike Mart in October 2012. Thanks for the replies to date.
Colin
Southend

[Ozmadman]

quote:
? If that is the case, your forks are twisted, usually because the top and bottom yolks yokes are not quite in line with each other. The mudguard acts as a brace to stop the forks twisting lower down but if the yolks yokes are out of line at the top it will not straighten the wheel in relation to the handlebars.

Edit: Yes, OK, so I've got egg on my face. Edited by - Janet on 18 Sep 2012 12:40:01 PM


Ha ha never noticed but like the pun!!! Thanks Paul

[Ozmadman]

quote:
You should be able to straighten them up as you say unless the yokes themselves have been bent, which I doubt. Remember,½ a degree round at the yoke shows as quite a bit out of line when you're looking something the size of a wheel and mudguard.


Loosened the top nuts and lower pinch bolts and wedged the front wheel against a wall with a lump of 2 x 2 then pulled on the bars as hard as possible against the wood and then tightened up everything with the pressure still on. Can't say I noticed any movement apart from the actual twisting under tension but once tightened up it is ALMOST straight. Will ride it round like this for a few weeks to let it settle and try it again to get perfection..

Paul

[1608]

Hi Paul, reading your last post it seems to me that you have stressed the forks in an unnatural bias, if you know what I mean. This may cause a resistance or stiffness in the fork action and cause rapid wear on the bushes. I would advise that you repeat what you did first time round,
but try also loosening everything else. Such as the mudguard fixings and the axle clamps at bottom of the forks.

[Ozmadman]

quote:
Hi Paul, reading your last post it seems to me that you have stressed the forks in an unnatural bias, if you know what I mean. This may cause a resistance or stiffness in the fork action and cause rapid wear on the bushes. I would advise that you repeat what you did first time round,
but try also loosening everything else. Such as the mudguard fixings and the axle clamps at bottom of the forks.


Thanks, have done as you have suggested, not sure whether this has made any difference, nothing obviously moved but on hindsight seems to make sense. I would have thought that with everything loosened and with a recent fork rebuild with new stanchions, brass top bushes, seals etc that the top yoke assembly would rotate relatively easily but it took a lot of tugging to create more of a twisting action of the whole assembly rather than a rotation of the yoke assembly. Any further ideas to get this to move a bit? Thanks Paul

[1608]

When you have loosened the top nuts and the lower yoke pinch bolts, try wedging the split in the lower yoke a little to relieve its grip on the stantions.Also, when refitting the front wheel you are supposed to tighten one lower wheel axle clamp leaving the other loose. Then depress the forks fully a couple of times before tightening the other clamp. This is to help settle the forks, sliders etc. in their natural action and parallel the forks to prevent tight spots and premature wear.Edited by - 1608 on 23 Sep 2012 09:44:30 AM
And, re-reading your previous post you didn't mention that you had loosened the steering/ bearing main nut and lock nut!!
Hope this helpsEdited by - 1608 on 23 Sep 2012 09:47:45 AM

[Ozmadman]

quote:
And, re-reading your previous post you didn't mention that you had loosened the steering/ bearing main nut and lock nut!!


No I didn't, Didn't think this would affect anything as the steering head is free to rotate anyway???

Thanks again, didn't know about tightening one side of the forks first though

Paul