Knee pads

BIKERJOHNO · Post by **BIKERJOHNO** » Sun Oct 21, 2012 6:24 pm

Having spent an enjoyable afternoon proving to myself that kneepads on my 1957 model 18 are impossible to fit, I thought I would consult the oracle.
Can anyone suggest a means of fitting these things? PLEASE !!!!!!!!!!

Rob Harknett · Post by **Rob Harknett** » Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:55 pm

Assuming you have the correct tank, all you need are the metal plates, fixing screws and rubbers. All from club spares.

alanengineer · Post by **alanengineer** » Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:59 pm

start with the little end

bob · Post by **bob** » Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:28 pm

A liberal application of a soap/water solution will assist

wilko · Post by **wilko** » Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:33 pm

And a heat gun or a hair dryer.

Rob Harknett · Post by **Rob Harknett** » Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:37 pm

Ah we assume you have all the required parts. first fit the plates , make sure they have not been damaged and touching the tank. They may need to be flattened a little. Then try the above mentioned, little end then bottom, thunp them upwards and lever in the top with hands, little end first where its tightest.

BIKERJOHNO · Post by **BIKERJOHNO** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:09 am

Thanks for the suggestions you guys. I was amazed at speed of replies !
It would seem I have been doing all the right things, but these old fingers are not as strong as they were back when Moses was a lad.
Also, the pads are clearly pretty old and have hardened up somewhat. So I have just ordered new ones from the spares scheme.
Thanks again for the interest.

wilko · Post by **wilko** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:44 pm

All the repro's i've bought dont fit the plates!

Lance · Post by **Lance** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:31 am

I can't speak for the quality of the clubs repro pads but some I've seen out there have the reverse relief pattern of the grip area, which wasn't going to suit me. My original ones were in good cosmetic condition but hard as a rock. I inquired on the Yahoo group many years ago about any methods of softening rubber. Below is the most comprehensive response I received from 'Sharon'....cut from that site. I did use the very hot water and glycerin method to soften mine and had very good results. Scrubbing too hard, though, can start to remove some of the raised areas so take it easy. I found the Glycerin at the local pharmacy store (CVS) here in the US.

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From Sharon:

On many occasions we have had to save very rare early harden brittle original Natural and Synthetic rubber motorcycle and motoring components. (Austin G Day had invented and taken out a patent for a successful Synthetic/Artificial Rubber as early as 1866 many others followed )Following is some of the safer methods for softening your 50 year old Tank Mounted Knee Grip Rubbers (KGR) whilst still in position to enable removal without damage.
The first and most important step is to thoroughly scrub with a soft type wire brush and warn water. The scrubbing should continue until the warn running water comes away from the KGRs clean.
Next Heat the KGR to be worked on by lowering into, "just boiling" hot water whilst keeping the KGR heated by the hot water, using a fair wad of cotton soaked in Glycerine all though rub the KGR vigorously length-wise ,backward and forward, where possible the KGR should be heavily coated with Glycerine all over working it well into the rubber . After giving both a good well heated vigorous
rubbing leave covered in Glycerine in a warm or sunny spot if possible for 24hrs then repeat. Once the KGRs are soft enough carefully remove them and repeat the above to the inside surfaces as well so the KGRs have been completely worked over, until the required softness is reached. Another method for making very old brittle rubber items quite soft and elastic again ,is after first cleaning only, as above. Prepare some "Diluted Water of Ammonia" , by mixing Pharmacopoeial Ammonia Water 1part and water 2 parts. There
should be sufficient to cover the items, warm water is best. Let the item remain in the mixture until the Ammonia has evaporated 1 to 2 hours is usually long enough. For much thicker items there is also a "light boiling process" I can give details for. Also very old thick hard items can be saved by putting them in 5% Soda Lye for about 10 days at 80 to 104 Deg F replacing the Lye repeatedly ,
the then very soft outer thin skin may be lost though and have to be gently scrapped away, but the item will become quite soft and elastic again, last rinse items in clean warm water to remove the caustic soda. There is also other more involved methods using Hot Solutions of Tannic Acid & Tartar Emetic , Tannic Acid & Calcium Sulphate plus Heat over a period but the Glycerine Method is the easiest and most harmless for Backyard Shed Conditions.
Follow Common sense safety procedures etc . Eye Protection , Rubber Gloves , Face masks etc ,keep kids of all ages and pets away.
Glycerine, Glycerin or Glycerol = Colourless viscous liquid with a sweet taste ,soluble in water , that is an important constituent of fats and oils and can be obtained from all vegetable and animal fats and oils by hydrolysis. It is used in various food stuffs and medicines and in the manufacture of the explosive nitroglycerine.
Good Quality Glycerol can be easily purchased cheaply in supermarkets.

robcurrie · Post by **robcurrie** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:02 am

I have had success restoring old plastic and rubber parts using silicon brake fluid (DOT 5 spec), but suggest trying it out on a scrap part first. There is also a silicon lube for sunroof seals which may also work.