solid state regulators

Information relating to the Matchless G12 or AJS Model 31 650cc twin
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Steve Dempster
Posts: 151
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:46 pm
Location: Worcs UK

solid state regulators

Post by Steve Dempster »

Hi all -

my G12 is still running very well but the regulator has given up - probably the original! - as examination shows lots of rot and WHY you in the case. I purchased a Wassell 6 voly pos earth unit - I'd like to stick to 6v and don't do a lot of night riding - and assumed like a fool it was 'like for like' on the wiring - that is, a straightforward swop. However the instructions that came with it (it's a model WW10221P BTW) start by saying the dynamo has to be removed, then temporary jumper connected between F & D terminals, then lots of other stuff. Here I begin to grey out because electrics is not and never has been a strong point of mine, I'm happier with the roundy-round bits! It does give a wiring diagram but I'm not too sure I understand it. Is it in fact possible to just connect this without all this testing? There are foour wires to the new regulator - black, green, yellow and red. Black apparently goes to the battery, red to 'E'(what is 'E'?) greeen to 'F' with something called a field coil between and yellow to 'D'.

Any help would be most appreciated.
Regards
Steve Dempster
itma
Posts: 7721
Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:01 pm
Location: UK

solid state regulators

Post by itma »

black to battery
red to earth
green to field, [coil is inside dynamo]
yellow to D dynamo.
I presume you are trying to fit this unit inthe old AVC?

look for FADE on it
depending on what dynamo,if you remove the cap the bakelite plate should be marked F & D
thats the yelow and green connections between dynamo and AVC,

two very important points to beware of;

what is your present set up? neg or pos earth?

is the new unit polarity sensitive?

stick to red earth on a pos system black on a neg earth.

you may need to polarise the dynamo wot how etc is on here somewhere.

no need to remove dynamo as far as I can see and you will need a better battery.

You would have been wiser to get a unit from Paul Goff instead of wassell, see his site.

Steve Dempster
Posts: 151
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:46 pm
Location: Worcs UK

solid state regulators

Post by Steve Dempster »

Hi - I was thinking of fitting it inside the old unit but I'm not too bothered about that as it's out of sight anyway. The setup is positive earth and the new unit is also rated positive earth. The old unit does indeed have F-A-D-E on it where the existing wires enter. Why would I need a better battery? I'l have a look at Paul Goff's site but as usual it's too late now!
I think from what you have said I should be able to work it out - many thanks for the help!
Regards
Steve Dempster
itma
Posts: 7721
Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:01 pm
Location: UK

solid state regulators

Post by itma »

the normal older type batteries are less suited to electronic control.
Steve Dempster
Posts: 151
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:46 pm
Location: Worcs UK

solid state regulators

Post by Steve Dempster »

Hey you were quite right what a good site that chap Goff has!
Regards
Steve Dempster
Steve Dempster
Posts: 151
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:46 pm
Location: Worcs UK

solid state regulators

Post by Steve Dempster »

quote:
the normal older type batteries are less suited to electronic control.


I take it these older ones are the lead/acid type (like what yours truly has)? Yes my left-hand exhaust has suffered somewhat.................
Regards
Steve Dempster
itma
Posts: 7721
Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:01 pm
Location: UK

solid state regulators

Post by itma »

correct

see batteries on Goffys site

any questions its better to email him than phone
Steve Dempster
Posts: 151
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:46 pm
Location: Worcs UK

solid state regulators

Post by Steve Dempster »

OK will do thanks again!
Regards
Steve Dempster
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