Electrics now an issue !

[Amb3611]

I knew I should have stuck to medicine.

[Groily]

I am a little confused. they state that both wires (orange/light green) from stator are joined and the light switch side of the orange wire is left disconnected and insulated ? this puts both sets of coils outputs into one side of the new rectifier (AC), the other AC terminal is the white (stator ground )wire. from what I read on the rectifiers website it is also a regulator? the + terminal to earth (pos earth) and the Neg terminal to neg battery.
Q1- does this not overcharge as both sets of coils working continuously or is it regulated by new rectifier?
Q2 - does the emergency switch still work if battery flat?
Q3 - will the lights work?

Your general query: Yes, if using an A Reg with an older 3 wire stator, whether a 6v or 12v one, then the two stator wires are joined and go to one 'ac' side of the A Reg, while the third 'common' wire from the stator goes to the other ac terminal on the A Reg.
The + and - terminals (which are the 'dc' ones) are connected according to the earth of your machine, so for you it's + to earth. The - wire goes to the power-in terminal(s) on the lights / ign switch(es) with a link to the ammeter (or may go to the ammeter with a link to the switch terminal(s) - comes to the same thing - and is the dc (ie rectified) power supply for the whole shooting match. (Not sure if you have two separate switches or the combined lights & ign one.)
The other side of the ammeter is hooked up to the battery Negative terminal. So juice flows from the battery 'up' the loom with the engine off or at low rpm when there isn't a higher voltage coming the other way from the alternator, and from alternator to battery in normal running.
So, specifically -
Q1 - No it won't overcharge with all coils working all the time, it is being regulated.
Q2 - No, because there is no longer the direct AC connection from the other alternator stator wire to the switch which is what provides pulses of juice to start with a flat battery. But you could incorporate a capacitor in the circuit to get over this if you wanted. I've never bothered myself to be honest, but people say they do the job. It's shown as an option on the Goff schematic I referred yesterday.
Q3 - Yes they will.

There are various wiring diagrams and schematics here on the forum showing how the machine can be wired very simply in the new configuration, as well as stuff scattered around the www.

I think you are wise to decide against the simple rectifier. Partly because a combined regulator is just 'better', but also because it provides the opportunity to check over the wiring while making the small mods needed.

[g80csp11]

Assuming this is for a lightweight , the club has started stocking 043428 lightweight harness (12V) that you need to use a combined regulator/rectifier as mentioned by Groily . no resistance wire fitted on this harness so the rectifier/regulator sets the system voltage at a maximum of 12 - 13.4V for charging

Everyone has correctly pointed out that the simple rectifier does not control voltage , and this is what has caused the battery to over charge
Once the resistance wire or suitable resistance (17W rated) fails then running with lights off will over charge

We are also getting 6 Volt harnesses manufactured , just not available yet . Ive got the prototype in front of me now !when they come in Ill put a picture in the Jampot

[Amb3611]

6v reg/rectifier ordered from Paul Goff. Along with a set of led bulbs to replace all blown items.finally found a translucent wire in headlight housing with another smaller one (cut) ina partially replaced loom. This I believe is the resistance wire that someone has cut and left out of system which would also explain some of the overcharging issue. Fingers crossed should be sorted by the weekend.

[g80csp11]

the resistance wire was connected to the 4th pin viewed from switch side of the connector between the light red and yellow wires / pins on the lighting switch . if you are running a rectifier / regulator that controls voltage then the resistance wire must be taken out of circuit

[Red Gauntlet]

Small bit of advice here, when using the Paul Goff or any solid state regulator, fit a 6800uF 30V capacitor across the output of the unit before the fuse for the battery as if the fuse breaks (which it can) so does the regulator, stranding you for hours in a random petrol station waiting for the AA.

[Amb3611]

So finally found the elusive resistor wire hidden in the loom and earthed under the coil (didn’t see it as cable looked black) all removed was in a very bad state , new reg rectifier fitted with lots of wiring changed. (Worn or wrong) . Went to attach battery and “pop” went fuse. Found one of the wires I had plugged into was actually a ground not a feed which had been altered previously . Another rejig and a careful start. All appears well but only started for a few seconds ( no tank on) will have to wait until weekend now for final tidy up etc. fingers crossed.