First starting 16ms

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Stephen Southwell
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Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2023 10:28 pm
Location: Hampshire UK

First starting 16ms

Post by Stephen Southwell »

Hi everyone, I've just completed full engine rebuild and rebore ,piston ,new bearings and bushes plus oil plunger, is there any tips /does and dont,s on first start up ,also what fuel are people using?
Thanks
SPRIDDLER
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Re: First starting 16ms

Post by SPRIDDLER »

Stephen Southwell wrote: Mon Jan 22, 2024 8:01 am Hi everyone, I've just completed full engine rebuild and rebore ,piston ,new bearings and bushes plus oil plunger, is there any tips /does and dont,s on first start up ,also what fuel are people using?
Thanks
Remove the rocker box cover plate and put about 2/3rds of a cup of oil (c150ml) down the pushrod tubes. This will collect in the crankcase, bringing the oil up to the oil pump 'return' drilling. Don't top up the oil in the tank until after running the engine.
On my '54 G3LS I also put oil in the felt filter housing to save a bit of waiting time. Some fit chaps will remove the sparkling plug and kick the engine over 40 or 50 times to prime the internals but I've never bothered as it was all well-oiled on assembly.
The pump can take up to 4 or 5 anxious mins before oil will start returning to the tank in pulses and bubbles/blurps. See animation below.

I've always used regular petrol but some prefer to use 'Super' which contains less ethanol; in theory reducing the likelihood of ethanol gumming up the petrol filters and carb jets.

Make sure you are familiar with the h/bar lever position for the choke! (Tight wire for choke 'Off').
Oil pump action..gif
Fingers crossed!
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Ralph
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Location: UK

Re: First starting 16ms

Post by Ralph »

You could loosen the rocker feed a little then you would at least know it was feeding oil to the engine
which is more important.
Ralph

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billbeavis
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Location: OXFORDSHIRE UK

Re: First starting 16ms

Post by billbeavis »

Hello Stephen,
What I'd do first is check there is a spark. That may be difficult if you are on your own but it should mean you would have the spark plug out for easier engine turn-over although you can also just put another one on for the test. I use E5 when I can get it but my 350 does run on E10. I just prefer not to leave it in the tank for too long. The E5 does seem to give better running. Tickle the carb for the start up.
If it was first start I would have the tappet cover off. Then it is possible to see oil flow to the valve gear. It takes ages to get up there though. I would have also put a good bit of oil down the pushrod tubes to lube the cams and gears. There is normally some in there up to the overflow hole to then drain into the sump.
Even if you are sure the oil feed and return pipes are fitted correctly for feed and return you may see into your oil tank to watch that the level is going down as it is pumped into the engine. I usually do this after an oil change. Then after what seems a long time the return will start. There have been lots of forum entries regarding ''how long before I see an oil return?''
You may think with the plug out you could kick the engine over to get oil flow but you'll wear your leg out before you see oil flow. You may know the singles have a slow steady oil flow whereas the twins need good pressure for the plain bearings.
Hope this helps. Bill
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