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[Beefheart]

Advice on timing please, G3 1953 this came to me in bits engine looked in good order deglazed new rings valves ground etc, magneto rebuilt. I had her running today after much re-timing and hoofing an awful lot of kicking back. I have not had anything to do with British singles since a B31 in 1970 (plenty of twins) so your thoughts and advice would be most welcome.

[Rob Harknett]

Advice on timing please, G3 1953 this came to me in bits engine looked in good order deglazed new rings valves ground etc, magneto rebuilt. I had her running today after much re-timing and hoofing an awful lot of kicking back. I have not had anything to do with British singles since a B31 in 1970 (plenty of twins) so your thoughts and advice would be most welcome.

If all timed correctly, the bike will kick back like hell and not want to run unless you start with the ignition lever almost fully retarded. Increase to fully advanced as the engine warms up. You will discover just how much fully retarded to set the lever for you bike, if ignition timing and points gap is not stop on.

[Beefheart]

Thanks Rob I'm still baffled rechecked the timing several times today, tried starting with no advance at all. Even kicks back through carb when easing up to compression which suggests to me far too advanced. Although yesterday it ran for about a minute and I know that I set the valve timing correctly I may check it again from desperation. Good job I've got nowhere to go

[SPRIDDLER]

It is without doubt over-advanced.
You did set the timing with the A/R lever at full advance didn't you?
And I assume you are giving it a good long heavy swing (keeping your knee bent) and not just a prod.

Later - some clarification from the FAQ's:
The points gap can be set regardless of the A/R setting but the timing must be set with the A/R lever at full advance.
If the A/R control cable enters the mag on the right of the mag body (when viewed from the points side) full advance is with the cable under tension - i.e. when pulled.
If it enters on the left - i.e on the frame downtube side, full advance is when the cable is relaxed.

[Rob Harknett]

I was about to suggest that lever position when timing Nevvile its often overlooked. Also you first also set the points gap correct.

[Beefheart]

Tomorrow I will redo it with the cable relaxed, watch this space! Yes I did give it a good old swing all 15 st of me with caution. I well remember mate's back in the day being launched by Gold Stars and Velocettes,(I never had that sort of money ).

[Beefheart]

Bingo!! Thanks Rob and Neville fired up nicely oil returning some carb issues not surprised, overhaul kit on order. A bit cross with myself for not using the tools that club website offers before asking the question. Now for the paint, wheels wiring at all.

[Group Leader]

Another bike for the Old George then when we finally get let out!

Alan

[Beefheart]

I hope so ,The Old George has (good )memories going back nearly 50 years, but that's another story. At the moment I am not sure how to do the next stage. Without the mudguards etc. A friend said it looks like a flat tracker (not going there). However I am keen on the lightweight look, single seat ,alloy guards. The wheels need rebuilding , I know what I would like to do 21"front 19x4" rear bear in mind that at the moment this a bit of wishful thinking, your thoughts good or bad. P.S. I have all the original tinware which is sound and will stay with the machine.

[clive]

Why would you put a 21 inch wheel on a road bike or are you intending to use it off road? You call it a G3 so I am assuming it is a rigid. You may have trouble with the clearance on the chainguard with a 19 by 4.00 rear tyre. I eventually got mine to fit on a 52 swinging arm bike but it required a lot of work on the chainguard. The original front mudguard will not fit with a 21 inch wheel so resale value would be reduced by the cost of a wheel rebuild.