1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
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1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
I have a 1967 Matchless G15CSR and on the final stages of bringing it back to life, after several years focusing on other projects.
I was a past member and have come back to both contribute and gather knowledge from the vas resources available here.
I feel that I have collected most of the manuals, parts lists, articles, magazines etc. that are out there and through the years, and have solicited help and inquired parts from Mike at Walridge and the Yahoo group, but need some help with a few still unknowns.
John, after reading some of you posts regarding the G15CSR I thought you may be able to answer some of my still unanswered questions and direct me on the right path. And please any others chime in!
Questions
1. I read in one of the forum posts that the CSR had the air pump under the seat as opposed to on the side rail? Any Pictures on this?
2. Please look at the attached foot peg picture and advise me on why the break lever while in the return position pushes up on the foot peg? http://www.jampot.com/forum/download/fi ... ew&id=2848
3. Did all the CSR's have the push button type break switch that really doesn't strike the back on the lever well or did some have the slide type? If so where can I get one? Part Number? I have heard different opinions on this…
4. I have read the Trignition and wood dowel down the cylinder when timing at the factory methods for static timing and would like to confirm this method as a starting point. Especially on the cumbersome may to time the atlas motor fitted with a Boyor. Has anyone worked out the drop in inches using a TDC tool down the plug hole? And should it be 31 deg with the Boyor?
5. Using the Boyor what spark plugs and gap are suggested?
I realize these are specific questions, but this is about all I am left with…
Thank You
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Last edited by Ron Leese on Sun Nov 22, 2015 5:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ron Leese
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Re: 1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
Welcome back
you might be able to resize you picture in 'paint program' or a similar photo edit program by reducing the pixels.
My CSR, although a 1960 has the pump on the right top rear frame rail.
![Happy :beer:](./images/smilies/beer.gif)
My CSR, although a 1960 has the pump on the right top rear frame rail.
Allons-y, amis de Matchless et AJS
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Re: 1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
Don't know about your Qs 1 to 3 at all I'm afraid, but I am finding that on my '67 P11 30° of advance works very nicely. Plugs are NGK BP7ES, which worked fine with 22-25 thou gaps with a Boyer system I ran for a couple of years, and work just as well at 18-20 thou with the magneto I am running at the moment (and prefer).
For static timing I find it is actually easier to use a timing disc on a little plug stuffed into the oil feed hole on the crank than it is to try to do it with a bit of something down the plug 'ole (dished pistons don't help here . . .). Not sure of the vertical distance btdc in inches, but if memory serves - and it doesn't always! - 8.7mm comes to mind for 32°, or 11/32nds. As a starting point, that would certainly work, anyway.
For static timing I find it is actually easier to use a timing disc on a little plug stuffed into the oil feed hole on the crank than it is to try to do it with a bit of something down the plug 'ole (dished pistons don't help here . . .). Not sure of the vertical distance btdc in inches, but if memory serves - and it doesn't always! - 8.7mm comes to mind for 32°, or 11/32nds. As a starting point, that would certainly work, anyway.
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Re: 1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
Hi
Ok, as for #2 I thing I have the answer from a kind fellow in the Yahoo group. The metal block that is welded on the back side of the break arm is missing so its not striking the foot peg bracket, but instead hitting the foot rest past the joint and pushing it up.
Anyone have the correct dimensions of this "STOP"?
Ron
Ok, as for #2 I thing I have the answer from a kind fellow in the Yahoo group. The metal block that is welded on the back side of the break arm is missing so its not striking the foot peg bracket, but instead hitting the foot rest past the joint and pushing it up.
Anyone have the correct dimensions of this "STOP"?
Ron
Ron Leese
- John Donne
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Re: 1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
Your G15CSR going by the frame number is an export Matchless G15CSR street scrambler. It was totally different to the earlier G15CSR café racer type of bikes. It had solid footrests as per the G15 Mk2's, with a rubber footrest, a 2.2 gallon scrambler style petrol tank, with the rear brake pedal as per the G15CS, as is the rear sub frame. The tyre pump is clipped to two right hand clips of the left hand rear sub frames down tube, as per the G15CS type bikes. It also had chromed sides to the petrol tank, with two parallel lines painted on the tank. It had two Matchless winged M plastic red tank badges.It used two Amal 930 Concentric carbs, with a wedge type air cleaner painted black. It used the mushroom type CB casting mounted were the magneto usually was, with the Lucas 4CA CB's and condensers with a Lucas 54418910 A/R unit, with two Lucas MA12 coils mounted on a bracket behind the oil tank. It also used two Lucas MKZ9E 6 volt batteries, mounted in series, to make 12 volts, with a 2MC capacitor mounted on a spring. There was a bracket 033058 that mounted the ignition switch on the cross stud that held the rear sub frame, under the petrol tank. This stud was longer for the coil ignition models. The colour was Candy Apple Red, for the oil tank, battery box, and petrol tank. The mudguards were alloy or of the Dural type, with a 19 inch wheels front and rear, with a chromed rear chain guard, and an export Lucas 12 volt rear tail lamp 679. The dual seat was as per the later or coil ignition N15CS, and G15CS, with a black seat, and a chromed strip on the bottom on the sides. The rear of the dual seat had a T piece that was bolted to the under side of the seat, that bolted through a hole in the mudguard with an acorn type nut and washer that held the rear of the dual seat to the rear mudguard. The front forks were as per the G15CS, with the one inch longer damper tubes and the 25 inch or 247/8 inch fork stauntion's. The head lamp was painted black with an ammeter in the centre and red Opel for the main beam indicator. The instrument bracket was painted black and not chromed as per the café racer style bikes. The G15CSR cafe racer headlamps were also chromed plated but the street scramblers were painted black. The footrest stud spacers were different to the G15CS models as the spacers had different lengths and one was cad plated and one was painted black. They were not fitted with a sump guard as per the G15CS models. The handle bars were as per the earlier models wit the cross brace half way up the bend, or the same ones as fitted to the high pipe single seat P11 models. The handle bar grips were of the later Beeston or GT type in black. There was a horn and dip switch that was screwed to the handle bars. The light switch was a Lucas SA88 type mounted on the speedo bracket, in the centre.
The speedo drive was a BG5330/257, and the rev-counter used as 2.1 head with a 1.1 drive and a Smiths drive BG1508/05. The timing cover was of the right angle straight up mounting type, with an amour shield coiled at the bottom. These bikes were all dispatched in September 1967 through to November 1969 and only 15 of them were sold in England and all the rest went for export. Joe Francis of Eltham, South London sold two of them for personal export.
The ignition timing would depend on whether you use the original 7.6.1 piston or the later 8.9.1 or 9.1 Commando pistons.
The speedo drive was a BG5330/257, and the rev-counter used as 2.1 head with a 1.1 drive and a Smiths drive BG1508/05. The timing cover was of the right angle straight up mounting type, with an amour shield coiled at the bottom. These bikes were all dispatched in September 1967 through to November 1969 and only 15 of them were sold in England and all the rest went for export. Joe Francis of Eltham, South London sold two of them for personal export.
The ignition timing would depend on whether you use the original 7.6.1 piston or the later 8.9.1 or 9.1 Commando pistons.
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Re: 1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
The rear brake light switch for the later G15CSR street scramblers used the later Lucas plastic button type. The earlier G15CSR café racer used the earlier metal box type brake light switch. The later Lucas plastic button brake light had a different type of operating stud to the earlier stud that operated the earlier box type. This part is not shown the Master Parts book for 1966-67-68, but which does show the G15CSR or later different parts, with 1968 next the G15CSR at the end of part number column. This later operating stud had a small tab added to the stud as the button type light switch was lower that the earlier box Lucas one. This tab therefore was made lower to contact the lower mounted brake light button switch. If you had never seen one you would not know what it looked like. This later stud must have also been fitted to the later coil ignition N15CS and G15CS models. For my coil ignition AJS 33CSR I added the extra tab to the standard stud. The locking nut is the same as the rear G15 models chain adjusters locking nuts.
- John Donne
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Re: 1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
The previous post has a mistake concerning the handle bars that were fitted to the later G15CSR street scramblers. They did not use the scrambler type bar as above, but used the export 1961 650 Manxman, export Atlas, G12CSR, and the 1968 Commando type high handle bars or were described as American High Bars. These have about a 12 inch rise, and they are very comfortable for riding around town. The original bars had the Norton part number stamped on them at one end.
The exhaust pipes and silencers were as per the coil ignition N15CS, and G15CS models. These were down pipes as per the G15 Mk2's with Norton silencers. These were held to the frame with shallow s type brackets, through a hole in the frame that previously bolted the bracket for the one piece exhaust pipes that were used from 1963 to 1966.
The clutch and brake levers used 7/8 between the centres, and the right hand lever was a combination of the choke and the brake lever. These were balled ended and chromed.
The Speedo was as per the previous models, and was a Smiths SSM.3001/00A, and the rev-counter was a Smiths RSM.3003/00A. The rev-counter cable was 2ft 5inch long.
The rear shocks were one inch shorter than the N15CS and G15CS that used the Girling 4590, and a 9.4 inch spring, and the G15CSR were Girling, 4763, 12.9 inches extended. They had the black tops with chrome bottoms, and a 110lb rate spring. The spring length was 8.4 inches long. The black shield was 6 inches long and the chrome one was 5 inches long. The top bolts were chromed plated, and the rear mudguard stay was of the later type.
The exhaust pipes and silencers were as per the coil ignition N15CS, and G15CS models. These were down pipes as per the G15 Mk2's with Norton silencers. These were held to the frame with shallow s type brackets, through a hole in the frame that previously bolted the bracket for the one piece exhaust pipes that were used from 1963 to 1966.
The clutch and brake levers used 7/8 between the centres, and the right hand lever was a combination of the choke and the brake lever. These were balled ended and chromed.
The Speedo was as per the previous models, and was a Smiths SSM.3001/00A, and the rev-counter was a Smiths RSM.3003/00A. The rev-counter cable was 2ft 5inch long.
The rear shocks were one inch shorter than the N15CS and G15CS that used the Girling 4590, and a 9.4 inch spring, and the G15CSR were Girling, 4763, 12.9 inches extended. They had the black tops with chrome bottoms, and a 110lb rate spring. The spring length was 8.4 inches long. The black shield was 6 inches long and the chrome one was 5 inches long. The top bolts were chromed plated, and the rear mudguard stay was of the later type.
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Re: 1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
Wow lots of great info thanks to all!
By the way its great to know You have 1 of 95 but I really love the look of the café racer style. Please don't hold it against me. Maybe I should start collecting the correct parts, so god forbid I ever wanted to sell the value would be there?
Ron
By the way its great to know You have 1 of 95 but I really love the look of the café racer style. Please don't hold it against me. Maybe I should start collecting the correct parts, so god forbid I ever wanted to sell the value would be there?
Ron
Ron Leese
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Re: 1967 G15CSR Help Wanted
Hi
John you really gave great details for the scrambler, but Since I'm building this bike to the cafe racer style I have a few questions.
does the cafe racer have clutch and break levers with ball ends? and how can I determine which pistons are installed without taking heads off? Is there a measurement down the plug hole for flat vs coned piston?
Anyway any other details on the cafe racer build would be appreciated.
Ron
John you really gave great details for the scrambler, but Since I'm building this bike to the cafe racer style I have a few questions.
does the cafe racer have clutch and break levers with ball ends? and how can I determine which pistons are installed without taking heads off? Is there a measurement down the plug hole for flat vs coned piston?
Anyway any other details on the cafe racer build would be appreciated.
Ron
Ron Leese