AJS 14s

Information relating to the Matchless G2 or AJS Model 14 250cc Lightweight
cbranni
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Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2010 9:17 pm
Location: ABERTAWE UK

Re: AJS 14s

Post by cbranni »

Well done on getting it started and welcome to the club.

1. Lightweight electrics are a nightmare, (thats only my opinion) if it was me I would put new switches, new harness, throw the rectifier away and fit a modern rec/regulator and keep it at 6 volt, Catmando services would be a good place to start
http://www.catmando-services.co.uk/index.html
Other suppliers are available.

2. Strange noises as in splutters, knocks, rumbles, rev changes????? need bit more info on this one

3. That oil leak is from the engine breather I would think, Paul is our resident expert on lightweight breathing :D , is it a large amount? it does help to lube the chain and the back wheel, tyre, swinging arm :D

4. See 1

5. The clutch plates are stuck together, in neutral pull the clutch lever in and kick the engine over, the clutch should slip and not turn the engine. If clutch doesn't slip then plates are stuck, you may be lucky and free them by kicking engine over with clutch in, if not it's a clutch strip down.

Other members will be along to give good advice
Keep us posted.

Colin
only dead fish go with the flow
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Ozmadman
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Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:02 am
Location: ESSEX UK

Re: AJS 14s

Post by Ozmadman »

Welcome to the club, my lightweight electrics are fine and I have never had any trouble but my bike was re-wired shortly before I bought it. The original bikes had a resistor wire in the circuit which was suppose to help with the problem of the battery overcharging and blowing the bulbs but it wasn't very successful. As Colin says dump the rectifier and get something like already mentioned or an A reg from Paul Goff

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm

I have fitted one of these and had no problems at all. You can get pattern switches easily( ignition and lights are the same switch) but keep the original wipac knobs if you want to maintain originality. Never fitted a harness but the electrics are easy especially when compared to my 1974 Yamaha Rd and you can get them easily enough. The oil leak could be the engine breather which is supposed to allow a small mist of oil out which is directed onto the chain but also it could be a leak from the seal behind the gearbox sprocket? Gearbox oil could, if not old, still be golden colour and will smell like gearbox oil but engine oil would be black. Does it leak whilst stationery or more if you have it on a side stand( if you have one) and does it run down the centre stand legs??
As for the intermittent engine noise, as Colin has mentioned, we need a better description or even a short video if possible

Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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SideValve
Posts: 189
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:37 pm
Location: OXON UK

Re: AJS 14s

Post by SideValve »

Definitely worth checking the wiring. Simplest thing would be to disconnect the wire to earth then put a meter across the gap. With the switch off no current should flow. To flatten the battery there must be a short somewhere. Next step is to disconnect things until the flow stops.
With the exception of the brake-light switch (which I looks 60's to me) all my electrics are from 1959. Thankfully there are few moving parts so as long as everything is clean and intact the electrics should be fine. Original switches can be dismantled & fixed if you are patient but it might be something as simple as a frayed wire or damaged insulation.

p.s. we need a picture :¬)
Peter W
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Ozmadman
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Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:02 am
Location: ESSEX UK

Re: AJS 14s

Post by Ozmadman »

Just to clarify as I know nothing about wiring... Put a meter across what gap? And is that set on continuity or a voltage setting??

Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
barnloo
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 10:07 pm
Location: SUFFOLK UK

Re: AJS 14s

Post by barnloo »

SideValve wrote:Definitely worth checking the wiring. Simplest thing would be to disconnect the wire to earth then put a meter across the gap. With the switch off no current should flow. To flatten the battery there must be a short somewhere. Next step is to disconnect things until the flow stops.
With the exception of the brake-light switch (which I looks 60's to me) all my electrics are from 1959. Thankfully there are few moving parts so as long as everything is clean and intact the electrics should be fine. Original switches can be dismantled & fixed if you are patient but it might be something as simple as a frayed wire or damaged insulation.

p.s. we need a picture :¬)
Hi, I don't think it is earthed, looking at the wiring diagram it shows a earth wire coming from the wire that comes from the positive side of the battery, I have looked very hard but find nothing
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SideValve
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:37 pm
Location: OXON UK

Re: AJS 14s

Post by SideValve »

There should be a wire from the positive side of the battery going to the frame. Disconnect it from the battery and either test for continuity or volts between the positive on the battery and the wire you just took off. If the electrics are ok there should be no continuity (and therefore no volts) with the switch off.
If there is no continuity try wiggling the switch in the off position just in case its has an intermittent fault in the switch.
Presuming there is continuity you can then try disconnecting things until it stops.
Peter W
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