Removing bolt from end of '52 AJS 18 fork tube

[davidhutton44]

I am trying to remove the bolt from the end of the fork tube on my 52 heavey weight single. I turned down a deep socket to fit but when I turn it, nothing comes loose. It just turns and turns... Is there any way to remove the bolt or is the shock non-repairable?

Any help will be appreciated.
David

[Peter Lecompte]

Hi David, this can be a problem. But i have found that by using a sharp, long bolt in the in the oil drain hole, it locks onto the damper cone to stop it turning. Then use the turned down socket to undo the bottom bolt. I did exactly this on the weekend. Also make sure that the fork stanchion? is pulled out of the way. There are some good expanded parts layouts in the manuals which shows how it goes together. Also have a look at the bottom bolt head. It may be rounded off by a previous owner. Ahhhh Peter

[davidhutton44]

Thanks, Peter. I will try it. Any suggestions if the bolt is rather rounded??

[rex.webb]

If the Head is rounded ?
????????????? Your in "B I G " trouble .
Now the EXPERTS ? can inform you how to do it .
RIDE with CARE and LIVE LONG to ENJOY your Bike.s and Scooter,s.
Insured with Peter James.

[clive]

Thanks, Peter. I will try it. Any suggestions if the bolt is rather rounded??

try searching on google for "spanner for rounded nuts" there are specialist sockets that advertise as being suitable for rounded bolts by virtue of the design (metrinch and griptite). No idea if they work

less helpfully this is what I was looking for, rounded spanner for rounded nut!

[Marty]

If the bolt head is rounded make sure you use a 6 point socket not the more common (and more useless) 12 point.
Marty

[davidhutton44]

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Peter Lecompte]

Hi David, if the bolt head is rounded, like mine were, I used a good tight AF socket and tapped it with a hammer until it gripped the bolt head. I think maybe the light hammer taps may of helped loosen the bolts. Sometimes a bit of direct heat on the bolt has it expanding, then cooling, then heating and break the rust joint between the threads. Good luck, Peter