Help with AJS EOS Fork Dismantling Needed

This area is for discussion/information on the "modern" AJS motorcycles manufactured in China from 2006 onwards.
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hmeleg
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Joined: Sun May 29, 2016 9:54 pm
Location: Thame, Oxford

Help with AJS EOS Fork Dismantling Needed

Post by hmeleg »

Trying to dismantle the forks on my 2010 AJS EOS so that I can separate them from the frame. Have removed the four clamping collets from the top and bottom yokes and whilst the side indicator bolts into the lower yoke are corroded are bust off I have drilled out one of them to try and make sure that don't go through the lower yoke into the fork shaft so securing it in place.

Clearly the collets were heavily corroded and I think the forks are also probably corroded in the yokes but have been gently heating the yokes over the last few days and injecting the area with WD40 to try and loosen them up. This hasn't helped.

Don't understand the function of the top nuts going into the top of each fork tube as these sit inside the top yoke so are not part of holding the fork tubes in the yokes. Obviously removed the centre stem nut. Tried using a large puller on the yokes to try and remove the top yoke but still not shifting.

Has anybody ever dismantled one of these forks before ?. Any advice on how they come apart ?.

Thanks in advance.
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1608
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Re: Help with AJS EOS Fork Dismantling Needed

Post by 1608 »

Not too sure about the construction of the forks on modern AJS, but on the older machines the lower yoke has a pinch bolt so the lower yoke clamps the fork stanchion. To remove the stanchion you have to prise the slot in the lower yoke apart usualy with some sort of steel wedge, screwdriver etc. Hope this is some use.
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REW
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Re: Help with AJS EOS Fork Dismantling Needed

Post by REW »

I can't imagine the EOS forks are very different to many other small bike forks from Japan where I bet the design originates from.

So, I assume the handlebars ets and the wheel, brake caliper and mudguard are all off and the bike is securely supported under the engine.

Now decide what it is you want to do first - stanchions to come out of yokes while they remain on the steering head or top yoke off while the stanchions are still in the bottom yoke and on the bike.

It sounds like you have loosened all pinch bolts. It also sounds like you have removed the steering stem nut. And have you also loosened/removed the steering bearing adjuster ring nut, usually beneath the top yoke?

I would leave the yokes bolted in place, all else loose/removed and tap the top of each stanchion with a heavy hammer, via a suitable piece of wood. Heating the yoke helps. It may take quite a bit of tapping, if not controlled whacking but don't bray at it. It also helps if someone else can hold the fork leg forwards to prevent its own weight binding it in the yoke.

Similarly you could tap the top yoke upwards to loosen it from the top of the stanchions, but do a tap each side in regular turns.

None of this will do your steering bearings any good if you need to hit hard, but the I imagine that is why you are doing all this work. Do come back and tell us how it is going.
Ron

1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
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