Old'ish git on modern bike DD125E

[AdrianH]

The parts arrived in the post, so this evening was a clean up and refit all the bit. Pull the old oil seals out with a screwdriver and some oil on the seals before stuffing the gear through them.

I did have an issue replacing the O ring on the neutral switch, which really is an all gear switch, but just one wire being used! I had to use a large drill bit, and by hand chamfer a lead-in the crankcase hole to allow the O ring to fit and seal. Probably because I used a 3/16" rather then an 1/8" size but the original was just too slack and was probably the cause of the leak in the first place.

Dowels back in place gasket fitted and plate fitted then the alternator bell and starter gear, then another gasket gear retaining clip and then side cover.

It was a pain getting the crank bolt to 60 N/m whilst holding back the bell, but possible.



The battery is flat, so is now getting a slow charge, tomorrow night if allowed will be drain any last bits of oil out, clean the strainer/filter and fill with oil and see if the engine will start, I still have to figure out the stand-stand switch and see if used to cut the engine.

I have a question for the group why can I not use car engine oil that is 10W40 API SL/CF? Is it to do with the clutch and the oil being to slippy?

The Haynes book says 10W40 SG or SH.

Cheers

Adrian

[SPRIDDLER]

Oh dear, an oil question ..........
(No offence intended. It's a Forum chestnut)

Hi Adrian and welcome.
In my Honda 125 CBF handbook it states:

'Use SAE 10W-30 API/SG or higher oils except those displaying the circular API energy conserving label on the container as this may affect clutch performance'

I assume that 'higher' than SG means SH, SI, SJ, SK........etc.

It also quotes an oil spec'n JASO T 903 Class MA which is not familiar to me - maybe that terminology is used in other overseas markets.

[Eamonn]

See : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

[AdrianH]

Looks like I stepped on a mine field with the oil question?

I had already read lots about it on the web, but to be honest there was no clear answer, in the end I have picked up 4 litres of SG type oil for motorcycles.

Anyways I need the assistance of another DD125E owner or Regal raptor owner if any are lurking on this thread.

HOW THE HELL DO I REMOVE THE SEAT AND TANK? Answers with pictures please!

There is no spark and the coil is under the tank, there are two screws through rubber bobbins at the front of the tank, these are out but the tank will not slide forward as I expected. So must I assume be fastened under the saddle seat. there is no key to unlock and no bolts readily seen that I would need to remove. The rear (queen?) seat has a couple of pozi-head screws in view that are rusted solid at the rear of the back seat, so not sure if remove that, then get access to the saddle seat, then get access to the tank?



That shows the layout approx

Cheers

Adrian

[AdrianH]

Seats now off, had to drill off two screw heads, that allowed me to remove the rear seat, then get to two bolts, then remove the saddle seat then remove a bolt holding the tank.

Engine is running, bit lumpy so will have to remove carb and clean and treat it to two new spark plugs. Will rub down part of the main frame under the tank area and repaint, get some new tank rubber bobbins before the tank is refitted. the rubber band holding the CDI unit on has snapped so that is loose so ingenuity is needed there, just small little jobs while I await the V5 back from the DVLA.

Adrian

p.s. perhaps I will remember the bike has a kill switch next time!

[Janet]

I can't help with any advice rearding your bike but, having experience of taking bikes apart, I'd suggest you get a notebook and write down what you do, such as how to take off the seat, and everything else you do. Then, if you need to do it again in future, you will have a reminder. Write down any advice and information you get from other people. Also, if you do something wrong first time, make sure you record what not to do so you avoid repeating the error. It's like writing your own workshop manual for a bike that has very little information available. The names and addresses of suppliers of parts (including non-standard parts that fit and do the job ) would also be a good idea, too. It may be that you don't keep the bike long enough to have to go through it all again, but you could pass it on to the next owner.

[clive]

Also, if you do something wrong first time, make sure you record what not to do so you avoid repeating the error. It's like writing your own workshop manual for a bike that has very little information available.

If I did that Janet I would run out of paper very quickly, latest one timing at fully retarded after just advising someone how to make sure they were not doing that on the website...............................

[AdrianH]

I do keep notes and pictures of what I do, sometimes. But I do use websites like this to record the good and the bad, so a reference for myself and others.

I could have saved myself several hours reading on CDI units if I realised the kill switch was on. But now I understand how CDI units work, have started to sort out the wiring on the bike including removal of some superfluous connections until fully fixed, such as clutch starter switch as it is knackered. So much on this bike is exposed to the elements it is remarkable more electrics are not duff. Does it not rain in China?

Adrian

[Janet]

Also, if you do something wrong first time, make sure you record what not to do so you avoid repeating the error. It's like writing your own workshop manual for a bike that has very little information available.

If I did that Janet I would run out of paper very quickly, :

If you learned to do joined up writing you would save paper by not having all the spaces between letters.

[SPRIDDLER]

If you learned to do joined up writing you would save paper by not having all the spaces between letters.

Can't think why Clive, but I read that Janet suggested you learn how to do joined up wiring. Oh, how I laughed.