New owner of a AJS H6

[NDHAero]

Hi,

Nicholas Hill here. I recently bought a semi restoration project 350 OHV. Mechanically it seems fine, and i am gradually learning hings - never done any restoration work before! So please forgive my naive questions.

I currently have the following areas of confusion:

1/ How do I remove the fuel tank? It appears to be impossible without cutting of parts - Either fixed on pipe unions, or filler caps. Whichever way I try and think of moving it I am always stuck! The tank has been mechanically restored but to me the tank is the eye catcher of the machine (after the engine) So I want it to look as good as possible so I would like to sand it down and repaint and decal it. Are there any tricks i am missing?

2/ None of the connecting pipework is on the machine. What is the usl method of fining these? I was thinking of getting some straight pipes with conical ends, and bending them at home - but i can't find any suitable pipes anywhere - It seems a shame to get a similar one from another bike and modify that - what is the usual solution?

3/ The headstock - at the moment it only has a single bolt holding on the handlebars - this means the handle bars are free to move, is there no locking mechanism?

4/ Leading on from 2, is there schematics of the fuels and oil systems?

5/ Chain guards - all these are missing - can these be remade or would originals have o be found?

6/ Finally, the cable connecting the magneto to the spark plug, I take it the spark plug fitting is standard, but the electrical connection on the hag seems out of date. What's the best solution for this?

If you can answer any of the above questions, especially how to remove the fuel tank, I would be most grateful.

Many thanks in advance,

Nick

[Rob Harknett]

Hi,

Nicholas Hill here. I recently bought a semi restoration project 350 OHV. Mechanically it seems fine, and i am gradually learning hings - never done any restoration work before! So please forgive my naive questions.

I currently have the following areas of confusion:

1/ How do I remove the fuel tank? It appears to be impossible without cutting of parts - Either fixed on pipe unions, or filler caps. Whichever way I try and think of moving it I am always stuck! The tank has been mechanically restored but to me the tank is the eye catcher of the machine (after the engine) So I want it to look as good as possible so I would like to sand it down and repaint and decal it. Are there any tricks i am missing?

2/ None of the connecting pipework is on the machine. What is the usl method of fining these? I was thinking of getting some straight pipes with conical ends, and bending them at home - but i can't find any suitable pipes anywhere - It seems a shame to get a similar one from another bike and modify that - what is the usual solution?

3/ The headstock - at the moment it only has a single bolt holding on the handlebars - this means the handle bars are free to move, is there no locking mechanism?

4/ Leading on from 2, is there schematics of the fuels and oil systems?

5/ Chain guards - all these are missing - can these be remade or would originals have o be found?

6/ Finally, the cable connecting the magneto to the spark plug, I take it the spark plug fitting is standard, but the electrical connection on the hag seems out of date. What's the best solution for this?

If you can answer any of the above questions, especially how to remove the fuel tank, I would be most grateful.

Many thanks in advance,

Nick

Nick,
I am sure I advised you as to manual , parts lists etc for you bike. These would answer most questions asked if read and studied. Petrol & oil Pipe unions will unscrew, likewise tank bolts to the petrol/oil tank. Use a WIRE core plug cable and a plastic plug cap if you wish. Ask the e group members who is making guards, they are being made. The handle bars are secured like a push bike which only has one bolt in the middle. You will see this in the parts lists. The bolt in the middle goes down the stem and screws into a solid fitting with a smaller dia. than the inside dia. of the stem at the top, that increases in dia. to the bottom. When you tighten the bolt it pulls the fitting up inside the stem expanding it, just like a push bike. Make sure the wheel is pointing dead ahead before tightening, or you'll go round in circles.

[Colin F]

I have a 1926 G4 so should be similar.
There are 4 bolts underneath fixing the tank, remove all pipes, gear change, oil pump and there should be enough "wriggle room" to get it out.

Chain guards, you won't find any NOS you will need to make them or get them made, I made mine from sheet metal carefully bent around formers and brazed together, this is half the fun of restoring these old bikes.

Pipework can be made up from copper pipe and flare the ends like brake pipes or conical ends can be made of brass (or bought) and soldered onto the pipes.

Oil and fuel pipe schematics? there is one pipe from the hand pump to the engine (total loss system). The fuel pipe should have a horizontal coil in it to stop it fracturing through vibration and stop air locks.

Mag connection out of date? as long as the copper core is making contact with the ring it will work.

[Rob Harknett]

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This is what you should had discovered in the parts list link which was given.
Q 4/ answer yes, every single part right down to a washer clearly shown in the parts list. By checking a nut size it would almost be possible to scale up the " schematics " lengths bend rads etc. to make pipes, ask group members from where parts are available. We usually refer to schematics as part drawings or pictures, we are a multi national club, but in forums/ groups English must be used. Best to keep things as simple as possible. A lot of the archived literature could be improved with better scanners etc now available, so you may not see parts list pictures very clearly. I will see if I can find time to re scan the 1925/27 parts list ( pictures only ) pages 122 to 141. I'll update the website as easy as possible, but you will need to discover where and how to find these things. Impossible to tell you everything here, you will learn as you progress. Club forum and e group messages etc are all archived and searchable. The person that makes/ supplies H6 chain guards may be Alan Swainson, search that name. BUT .... do not buy before you research your bike ask questions etc. I believe I did ID some H5 parts on your bike. So you will need to ask if and H6 chainguard will fit your frame and H5 crank cases, perhaps with H5 gearbox and clutch. You could perhaps check yourself by looking at the parts list to see if both have the same pt. no. for the complete chain guard. Once you have researched what you have actually got.