'59 G12 ignition
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'59 G12 ignition
How easy is it to swap from magneto to coil ignition? What bits do I need?
NC.
NC.
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Re: '59 G12 ignition
You would need a distributor and a coil. I have just converted to a wasted spark system you still need the distributor and coil but the coil needs to be 12v twin outlet.
Roy
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Re: '59 G12 ignition
And a charging system wot works!
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Re: '59 G12 ignition
Roy you sound like an expert on electrics . haha
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Re: '59 G12 ignition
My lights are always bright but point taken.Groily wrote:And a charging system wot works!
Roy
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Re: '59 G12 ignition
The information I got came from a good source did it not Peter.g80csp11 wrote:Roy you sound like an expert on electrics . haha
Roy
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Re: '59 G12 ignition
You can buy a 'Magneto Replacement Kit', an electronic ignition kit from various places that sell Wassell parts (Part number for 12 volt WW61490). I cannot find it in the spares scheme. They also make a kit in 6 volt (WW61497); I've just fitted one to a 1954 T110.
Remove the magneto; fit the 'replacement' unit. Push drive gear on to shaft, lock on taper, and replace timing cover. The trigger rotor is also on a taper so all adjustments can now be made externally, without having to remove timing cover. Set timing as instructed. As both plugs fire at the same time, your timing on both cylinders will be spot on. Not so with the magneto, where the two cams can be quite a few degrees out from each other. Advance retard is taken care of electronically.
Fit an ignition switch, the cover plate across the front of oil tank and toolbox is ideal. Mount the twin coil unit to the external face of the toolbox between it and the oil tank, behind main frame tube. There's room in there, even with the horn. Fit ignition box inside toolbox where CVC unit was. There's space, because you have already fitted a small electronic voltage control.
One new wire from the power side of battery through a fuse to the ignition switch. Switched side to the ignition box. Connect the earth from the ignition box and the last wire to the coil unit. Earth the coil unit. Cut to length and connect wires inside 'magneto' unit. Plug other end into ignition box. If necessary, cut the HT leads and fit caps. Install and forget.
Of course this unit can be fitted to replace an existing distributor system, but you'd need to source a magneto drive gear (014464).
I'm in the process of installing one to my 1960 31 CSR. I have already fitted a new 12 volt armature and 12 volt field coil to my dynamo.
Bear in mind that coil ignition and generator (dynamo) is not such a great idea as the charging is not very reliable. AMC twins only used coil ignition with the alternator. I cannot think of a bike that combined the two, although most cars of the period did. But I think the electronic unit should use very little current compared to an 'ordinary' distributor system.
So much better than trying to source a (rare & knackered) Lucas distributor with an equally knackered advance retard unit and un-even firing cam. Plus that awful carbon brush on to the rotor and the distributor cap that ‘tracks' when cracked and wet!
Remove the magneto; fit the 'replacement' unit. Push drive gear on to shaft, lock on taper, and replace timing cover. The trigger rotor is also on a taper so all adjustments can now be made externally, without having to remove timing cover. Set timing as instructed. As both plugs fire at the same time, your timing on both cylinders will be spot on. Not so with the magneto, where the two cams can be quite a few degrees out from each other. Advance retard is taken care of electronically.
Fit an ignition switch, the cover plate across the front of oil tank and toolbox is ideal. Mount the twin coil unit to the external face of the toolbox between it and the oil tank, behind main frame tube. There's room in there, even with the horn. Fit ignition box inside toolbox where CVC unit was. There's space, because you have already fitted a small electronic voltage control.
One new wire from the power side of battery through a fuse to the ignition switch. Switched side to the ignition box. Connect the earth from the ignition box and the last wire to the coil unit. Earth the coil unit. Cut to length and connect wires inside 'magneto' unit. Plug other end into ignition box. If necessary, cut the HT leads and fit caps. Install and forget.
Of course this unit can be fitted to replace an existing distributor system, but you'd need to source a magneto drive gear (014464).
I'm in the process of installing one to my 1960 31 CSR. I have already fitted a new 12 volt armature and 12 volt field coil to my dynamo.
Bear in mind that coil ignition and generator (dynamo) is not such a great idea as the charging is not very reliable. AMC twins only used coil ignition with the alternator. I cannot think of a bike that combined the two, although most cars of the period did. But I think the electronic unit should use very little current compared to an 'ordinary' distributor system.
So much better than trying to source a (rare & knackered) Lucas distributor with an equally knackered advance retard unit and un-even firing cam. Plus that awful carbon brush on to the rotor and the distributor cap that ‘tracks' when cracked and wet!
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Re: '59 G12 ignition
Trevor, I've copied & pasted your advice, thanks. I'll try to find a 61490. I've already got a 12v Alton alternator on it (excellent lightd at night!)
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Re: '59 G12 ignition
Looked on <http://britishbikebits.com/electrical-parts > and found part number 61496 for the K2F magneto. Is this it?
NC.
NC.
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Re: '59 G12 ignition
Why would you want to do this? A K2F rebuilt by any of the specialists for around £200 will give you independent and reliable sparks for more years than you're likely to need.