G9 Clutch

john kitchen · Post by **john kitchen** » Sat Dec 13, 2003 12:22 pm

I am about to put my clutch back together.
Please could someone tell me how much tension to put on the 3 nuts that compress the clutch springs[?]

thanks

JK

pwaltham · Post by **pwaltham** » Mon Dec 15, 2003 10:28 am

It is usually trial and error.
Screw the nuts in equally, try the lever, make sure that the plates lift evenly.
You will need a stiffer lever than on a modern bike.
Put it back together and do a trial run.
No clutch slip............ great, you might be able to slacken the springs off a touch and reduce the risk of a snapped cable.
If the clutch does slip then take the cover off again and wind the screws in a bit more.
My clutch does develop the muscles in my left hand though.

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 12:00 am

Sorry John the answer really is similar to how long is a piece of string. Because it depends almost totally upon how much friction material you have on the clutch plates. For new plates I would suggest you try leaving the ends of the screwed pins about 1/8th inch below the bottom of slots on the adjuster nuts. Make sure they are all the same and that the clutch pulls in equally all round. Also that the whole thing rotates in the same plane, you can check this by kicking over in netural. Routing of the clutch cable is crucial for smooth operation, avoid like the plague any tight bends, don't be tempted to tie it into a place it really dosn't want to go, just to make things look nice. John did you ever get round to buying the workshop manual for your bike from the spares scheme? Almost everything you have ever wanted to know is in there.

Regards - Eric

gsneyd · Post by **gsneyd** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 10:19 pm

I have to disagree with Eric on the point that the workshop manual tells you everything. I cannot find where it tell you the grade of oil to use in the primary chain case or the amount. I am advised to use 20 SAE and fill with only sufficient so that the bottom of the p chain "kisses" the oil. As I am going through this process at the moment on a G12 please advise data source and any corrections to my above statement. I to am most frustrated having had the P Chaincase off MANY times.

Graham

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 12:00 am

I only said almost everything, that John wanted to know, nothing is perfect. You dont need to know the exact amount, the information you have to fill until the lower edge of the primary chain just dips into the oil is correct. You should be able to observe this through the same hole you are using to put the oil in. As for grade you should use the same as the engine, theres a good chance it will fill up with engine oil anyway, when you leave the bike for more than a few weeks and the oil drains down from the oil tank and fills up the crankcase, then overflows into the chaincase. Some say you should not use multigrade oil in the primary chaincase as it causes clutch slip, others say it causes clutch drag. I use multigrade and have neither problem.

lawrence · Post by **lawrence** » Sun Jan 18, 2004 9:09 am

Eric
I too have always used multigrade in the primary chaincase and experienced no problems. I recently wrote to Castrol and they said never use a multigrade in a primary chaicase! I'm going to change it at the next service and should see a huge improvement ;o)

Lawrence[}:)]

gsneyd · Post by **gsneyd** » Sat Jan 24, 2004 6:21 pm

Eric. Thanks for the confirmation re P chaincase oil level. The type of oil remains suck and see and this I cannot do until the weather improves.
A further point, I have not found a deffinitive answer to is - as the P chain only "licks" the oil, is the clutch wet or dry? I have heard it said that the oil only lubricate the chain and the roller bearings at the rear of the clutch housing and the clutch does not run truely wet.
Any further comments?

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 1:16 am

Its true that the clutch was not designed to run truely wet, but because of our common wet sumping and breathing problems they often do and generally seem to work OK. I guess the main reason is that we dont really stress our machines to the extent that would reveal the problems. However many sidecar users might take great exception to that statement because thats when the clutch really does have to work quite hard and the problems may then become a pain in the A***.
Ive just found out how to use these [:D][8D][:I][:p][}:)][;)][:o)] so you have to have some just for good measure.

gsneyd · Post by **gsneyd** » Mon Jan 26, 2004 7:43 pm

Eric. Thanks for the information. I'll post my results with the 20 SAE oil when I run the bike again. i.e when it gets warmer.
John. Sorry for pinching your entry, but I hope you find it rewarding.

Graham

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 11:39 am

The instruction books supplied with AMC machines tells you to use engine oil for the primary caincase, the oil level (pressed steel chaincase) is denoted on the transfer as 'Do not let the oil level fall more than 1/8" below the hole' While the clutch is technically not a 'wet' clutch, the amount of oil flung around ensures that it gets oily. The oil cannot be relied upon to lubricate the clutch clutch case rollers, which is why the manuals tell you to assemble the rollers with grease. (I bet this one gets me in trouble!)