G9 running rich

[hdawson]

Thanks again all.
I tried the autosol to no avail so I ordered a new float and needle.
When fitted it is still not closing as fuel still continues to pour out.
My Amal guy said that it fixes the problem 80% of the time but I seem to be Mr 20%.
I don't mind forking out the cash for a new bowl but any other suggestions before I do so?
Cheers, Hadrian.

[leswaller]

Some carbs had a washer between the top of the bowl and the valve housing and some didn't, depending on which valve housing is fitted. If yours has a washer but should not have one, then it will raise the fuel level in the float chamber to the point where it overflows before it closes the valve. If a washer is fitted then try taking it out, you have nothing to lose.

[dave16mct]

Les, its a pre-monobloc, are you thinking of a monobloc?

[leswaller]

Dave, yes sorry I am thinking monoboc, i didn't read the thread closely enough to glean the fact that you have a pre-monobloc. I have now re-read it

[dave16mct]

Not me Les, its Hadrian's bike in Oz.
I wonder if he 'got' Sprid's little joke about his wall!
Cheers Dave.

[hdawson]

Thanks all for your help.
After much fiddling and fitting new/ removing new parts my carb issues have been resolved.
However I have a new problem.
After starting and running fine for a few km's the machine fails as I idle at the lights and refuses to start until it cools down only to run normally for another 5 Km's or so.
I recall reading somewhere that this may be a maggie problem whereby the heat separates a break of the winding.
Sorry if this issue has been covered previously.
Any links or advise gratefully appreciated.
Cheers,
Hadrian.

[SPRIDDLER]

It certainly sounds typical of a failing condenser or a tired mag.
I assume you did fit new spark plugs after your 'running rich' shenanigans? (However, if both cylinders are failing to spark it does point to the mag ).
You must use solid core HT cabling (not the modern carbon-cored stuff) and non-resistor plug caps.
You can try closing the plug gaps to say, 15 thou and noting if it makes any difference in preventing stalling when the revs drop as it may help a weak mag to fire the plugs, although this is only a test and not a cure.

Have a browse/study of the Brightspark website which may enlighten you, and has a link to a mag repairer in Prospect South Oz.

http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/index.htm

and you may find James' website useful too...........

http://matchlessclueless.com/

[hdawson]

Thanks Spriddler.
Yes new plugs. Even tried iridium plugs which seem to work the same as standard types (they are now on the beeza)
I will reduce the spark gap as you suggest as a test.
Thanks for your advise.

[hdawson]

Just an update.
I'm still having the same problem(refusing to start when hot) but seem to have a good spark.
Seems like I'm going full circle, because once again I suspect the pre-monobloc as it still continues to flood and drip.
After reading Jensendk's new Carb question I think I'll try a 376 monobloc with the suggested jets.
I like the look of the pre-monobloc but can't go on banging my head against the wall.
Cheers all.
Hadrian.