What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
- cfaber
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What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
This is a '54 18S
What's wrong with the bolts I'm using? Are these the correct bolts in these positions (if you can tell from these images)
Here's the other side
Is there a spacer here?
And on the other side?
This bolt is interfering with the prop stand on the drive side, there's plenty of room on the timing side
What's wrong with the bolts I'm using? Are these the correct bolts in these positions (if you can tell from these images)
Here's the other side
Is there a spacer here?
And on the other side?
This bolt is interfering with the prop stand on the drive side, there's plenty of room on the timing side
Fix it until it's broken!
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
- ajscomboman
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Re: What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
In order, there should be 3 spacers on the footrest bar, either side against the rails and one between the engine plates. Second, the bolt that fits through the engine plate by the crankcase oil unions should have no washer and should be a special thin head bolt to allow clearance for the unions to be tightened. Lastly, again there should be no washers under the nuts on the bottom g/box stud and some times the nut has to be shaved to allow clearance. In later years the factory resorted to half nuts.
- Rob Harknett
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Re: What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
Check your parts list. Most of the studs will have thread size and length stated. So you can confirm some of them yourself. They did omit some standard fitting sizes in circa 1952 onwards parts lists, when the new pt. no. series was introduced. So you need to check if the pt. no. converts to an old part number. You can do this here. http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Spares_l ... ements.pdf
I gave that file a title starting with three zero's on purpose so it went top of the list, making it easy to find. If the stud/bolt converts to an old part number you may see dimensions given, if your 54 parts lists shows no dimensions.. Also take note of what Rob ( combie man ) says, as omission / addition of washers etc may make the stud appear too short or long. With the correct stud, starting off with the nut fully on one side, the nut should go fully on the other side. Not appear too long or short. I can see some of your studs have thread showing through the nut, on the other side the nut only goes halfway on.
I gave that file a title starting with three zero's on purpose so it went top of the list, making it easy to find. If the stud/bolt converts to an old part number you may see dimensions given, if your 54 parts lists shows no dimensions.. Also take note of what Rob ( combie man ) says, as omission / addition of washers etc may make the stud appear too short or long. With the correct stud, starting off with the nut fully on one side, the nut should go fully on the other side. Not appear too long or short. I can see some of your studs have thread showing through the nut, on the other side the nut only goes halfway on.
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Re: What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
Colin, the guide screw for the oil pump plunger looks peculiar. Items #5 & #6 are readily available new. Any deviation on these critical parts will result in massive damage.
Two other things I'd recommend at this juncture is begin working on oil leaks, there will be many: screws #4, adjacent to the guide screw, quantity 3 need red fiber sealing washers under the heads to prevent leaks, and the three welsh plugs sealing the primary side of the gearbox should be sealed on the outer face to prevent oil leaks, as should the OD (outside diameter) of the sealing collar on the oil seal for the output shaft on the gearbox.
My preference for sealing the above is a thin brush-on gasket goo like Yamabond, or Wellseal, but a thin smear of common RTV silicon will work as well.
Ciao, DC
Two other things I'd recommend at this juncture is begin working on oil leaks, there will be many: screws #4, adjacent to the guide screw, quantity 3 need red fiber sealing washers under the heads to prevent leaks, and the three welsh plugs sealing the primary side of the gearbox should be sealed on the outer face to prevent oil leaks, as should the OD (outside diameter) of the sealing collar on the oil seal for the output shaft on the gearbox.
My preference for sealing the above is a thin brush-on gasket goo like Yamabond, or Wellseal, but a thin smear of common RTV silicon will work as well.
Ciao, DC
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Dick Casey
The RideNut
The RideNut
- cfaber
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Re: What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
Any idea what part number this would be? I'm having a hard time finding them in the 54 parts book (green book)ajscomboman wrote:In order, there should be 3 spacers on the footrest bar, either side against the rails and one between the engine plates.
Thank you!ajscomboman wrote: Second, the bolt that fits through the engine plate by the crankcase oil unions should have no washer and should be a special thin head bolt to allow clearance for the unions to be tightened. Lastly, again there should be no washers under the nuts on the bottom g/box stud and some times the nut has to be shaved to allow clearance. In later years the factory resorted to half nuts.
Fix it until it's broken!
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
-
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Re: What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
1954 Spares List:
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- ajscomboman
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Re: What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
Cheat and make your own spacers, I use old handlebars and cut them to suit.cfaber wrote:Any idea what part number this would be? I'm having a hard time finding them in the 54 parts book (green book)ajscomboman wrote:In order, there should be 3 spacers on the footrest bar, either side against the rails and one between the engine plates.
Thank you!ajscomboman wrote: Second, the bolt that fits through the engine plate by the crankcase oil unions should have no washer and should be a special thin head bolt to allow clearance for the unions to be tightened. Lastly, again there should be no washers under the nuts on the bottom g/box stud and some times the nut has to be shaved to allow clearance. In later years the factory resorted to half nuts.
- cfaber
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Re: What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
Interesting. This was the screw and hardened guide pin that came with the engine. I do have another (new) screw however after examining it against the existing one they're identical with the exception of the head itself. I may replace it as someone slotted the smaller hex, but it's original.Dixter wrote:Colin, the guide screw for the oil pump plunger looks peculiar. Items #5 & #6 are readily available new. Any deviation on these critical parts will result in massive damage.
Thanks, the plugs all have seals on them, the gear box itself has a paper gasket from the seal kit, if this isn't sufficient I'll try some gray RTVDixter wrote: Two other things I'd recommend at this juncture is begin working on oil leaks, there will be many: screws #4, adjacent to the guide screw, quantity 3 need red fiber sealing washers under the heads to prevent leaks, and the three welsh plugs sealing the primary side of the gearbox should be sealed on the outer face to prevent oil leaks, as should the OD (outside diameter) of the sealing collar on the oil seal for the output shaft on the gearbox.
Got it, thanks, if I run into problems once it's oiled up I'll go back through and re-seal with the gray RTV I have.Dixter wrote: My preference for sealing the above is a thin brush-on gasket goo like Yamabond, or Wellseal, but a thin smear of common RTV silicon will work as well.
Ciao, DC
Last edited by cfaber on Tue Apr 02, 2019 8:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Fix it until it's broken!
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
- cfaber
- Posts: 346
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2017 5:37 am
- Location: USA, Colorado
- Contact:
Re: What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
I'm actually just going to have my machinist friend make some up for me out of round stock.ajscomboman wrote:Cheat and make your own spacers, I use old handlebars and cut them to suit.cfaber wrote:Any idea what part number this would be? I'm having a hard time finding them in the 54 parts book (green book)ajscomboman wrote:In order, there should be 3 spacers on the footrest bar, either side against the rails and one between the engine plates.
Thank you!ajscomboman wrote: Second, the bolt that fits through the engine plate by the crankcase oil unions should have no washer and should be a special thin head bolt to allow clearance for the unions to be tightened. Lastly, again there should be no washers under the nuts on the bottom g/box stud and some times the nut has to be shaved to allow clearance. In later years the factory resorted to half nuts.
Fix it until it's broken!
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
- ajscomboman
- Member
- Posts: 3969
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 1990 12:00 am
- Location: HAMPSHIRE UK
Re: What's wrong with my studs / bolts?
[quote=" I'm actually just going to have my machinist friend make some up for me out of round stock.[/quote]
Good plan.
Good plan.