Oil pipes - what is correct?

Information relating to the Matchless G80 or AJS Model 18 500cc Heavyweight.
raffles
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Joined: Mon Jan 01, 1990 12:00 am
Location: NORTHAMPTONSHIRE UK

Re: Oil pipes - what is correct?

Post by raffles »

The club spares keep a pack of all engine plate and crankcase studs and the reduced head bolt
I dont know the part number. Just ask for the pack.
Tony
schrottschlecker
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Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2017 8:36 am
Location: GERMANY

Re: Oil pipes - what is correct?

Post by schrottschlecker »

raffles wrote:The club spares keep a pack of all engine plate and crankcase studs and the reduced head bolt
I dont know the part number. Just ask for the pack.
Tony
I will check.

Thanks a lot!
schrottschlecker
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Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2017 8:36 am
Location: GERMANY

Re: Oil pipes - what is correct?

Post by schrottschlecker »

schrottschlecker wrote:thanks for your replys and special thanks for the pictures. It lookes like I have the original setup as in Mick D's pictures. The rubber ist still soft and I tend to re-use the pipes as they are.
Hello again,

I have assembled the original oil pipes and filled in some SAE50. Just after pushing the kickstarter a few time, the oil starts dripping from the upper pipe on the engine :cry: . I don't want to overtighten the screw. Is there any sealant needed (Hylomar or so)?
Does anyone know if the oil pipe kit for singles available at AMOC spares is a "plug-and-play" and includes all replacement parts for the old pipes of my 18S?

Thanks,

Christian
Mick D
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Location: Aberdeenshire

Re: Oil pipes - what is correct?

Post by Mick D »

Hi

The upper pipe is the return - is the oil leaking from the pipe to brass tube joint or from the conical joint at the crank case?

If it's the former a quick fix is to use a 'jubilee' type clip - another fix is to wrap a few turns of thin wire around it and tighten by twisting the ends together, (with a bit of care you should be able to fit the brass ferrule over the top. Sparing use of silicone gasket on the joint will help.

If it's the latter, disassemble and check the faces for damage or burrs and the crank case for an 'over tightening' crack - if all is OK reassemble with a smear of silicone gasket.

If you can get a polysulphide sealer that's even better.

Regards Mick
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cfaber
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Re: Oil pipes - what is correct?

Post by cfaber »

Rob Harknett wrote:Pictures show the bottom pipe fitted in the engine, the top correct fitting for the top is also seen. You can find the correct name for parts and the number in your bikes parts list http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Spares_l ... _twins.pdf
Ashampoo_Snap_2018.02.03_23h12m54s_002_.png
Ashampoo_Snap_2018.02.03_23h12m34s_001_.png
The rubber pipes were crimped on the metal pipe. Jubilee clips are easier to come by but not correct. To make your own oil and petrol pipe you will need the crimping tool. I have one, they are not too expensive and come with several different size parts for different diameter ferrules. It is important to get correct pipe with inner dia for the metal pipe and inner dia ferrules to fit on the rubber. If not correct they will not crimp up tight. Also they will go slightly oval and leak. I have had a few failures because of not being able to get correct size rubber. So I now take a piece of the copper pipe and some ferrules to a large car spares shop. They will stock various size rubber hose. Find the size you want and buy a metre or two. I do not find the clear plastic type petrol pipe using the crimper ferrules. That clear type plastic goes hard quite quickly. It will also go stiff and stay bent. When it gets to that stage it does not absorb vibration so start to loosen and leak. I too have resorted to using jubilee clips, when I have not had correct pipe and ferrules handy.
Looks like you have now got a similar answer to mine
Hi Rob,

Can you describe the crimping tool you're talking about. I'm looking for one here in the States for my project.
Fix it until it's broken!

Otherwise how will
anything get done?
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