points adjustment 1954 SR-1

[Rob Harknett]

I said very early in the topic, two operations were getting discussed. 1, the topic question, points adjustment, then a 2nd was introduced, that being timing the ignition. I Think that led to the confusion. There is no need to touch or do anything to the AR unit when setting the points gap. Unless it has seized in the open position. It is understandable, if a topic starts going off topic this can be very confusing. It is not your fault at all.

[leswaller]

Ok, lets calm this down a bit and take it in simple steps.
First set the points gap as stated in a previous post, do not touch the advance retard at this stage as it is irrelevant to the points gap setting.
Once you have done this you can set the AR, the process is pretty generic and applies to most engines of this age.
To do this first you have to rotate the engine to the appropriate point before top dead centre on the compression stroke. This is done by ensuring both valves are closed and then either by
(a) removing the primary drive cover, finding tdc by gently putting a rod down the plug hole so that it rests on the top of the piston and then rotating the engine until the rod is at its highest point and then rotating the engine backwards until you have the appropriate number of degrees of advance for your engine type (I don't know what this measurement is for your engine, but someone on this forum will know) as shown on a degree disc fixed to the end of the crank . Then slacken off the backplate holding the points and move it until the points are just beginning to open, then retighten.
or (b) Much easier but not quite as accurate, but near enough. Follow the previous procedure up to and including finding tdc, but without removing the primary drive cover, then if you ask nicely someone will tell you how the appropriate amount of degrees of advance translates into a linear distance for your engine. (on my engine it is 5/8"). Mark this distance on the rod you have used to find tdc above a line drawn across the rod where it just enters the plug hole, then rotate the engine backwards until the new line you have drawn is level with the point where it enters the plug hole. Then, as before slacken off the points back plate and adjust until the points are just opening and retighten.
You have now set the appropriate amount of advance for your engine.
Just one slight variation on this generic process is that if you have a coil and distributer, rather than a magneto, you may have to slacken the whole distributer and move this rather than just moving the back plate

[tbounds]

Thanks Wes That was going to be my order I thought would be correct . I just didn't want to do it wrong . I know i titled it points adjustment , but the topic line wasn't long enough to list everything .

I have a couple of other questions What spark plugs are people running in 1954 models with SR-1 mag?
On the choke lever as I call in on right side of handle bar , when lever is pushed forward all the way the slide in carb is down , meaning to me it is choked blocking air from breather. When pulled rear/aft the slide in moves up in carb allowing open tube , which i would think would be for normal running warmed up bike. It just seems backwards to me the way it works . Question am I correct in my thinking?

should the lever be pulled back toward rear of bike or forward for starting , my thinking is that full forward is full choke and full rear is open , that i should set lever full forward to crank cold?

[Rob Harknett]

I think you have the choke correct test it.
There are 2 slides in the carb, open the throttle, put your finger in the bell mouth, Close the choke lever and you will feel the small choke slide within the throttle slide descend. You only really need to use this fully closed when it's cold. The warmer it is the less choke should be required. Once the engine is warmed up , open the choke lever. This lifts the choke slide up clear of the carb bore to allow max airflow.
I forget what plug I use, I am guessing Champion N5. This should be stated in the manual. Still works OK for me using todays fuel. I'm not worried about max MPH or max MPG.

[ajscomboman]

Usually a Champion N3 for a single, N5 for a touring Twin and N4 for the CSR sports. Don't think it's that critical but for the record that's what I use in my bikes.

[thornebt]

This is the Matchless entry in my 1971 Champion spark plug catalogue. Bruce.

[56G80S]

I've been using the N5 (occasionally an equivalent if necesary) for ever since I got the G80S 1956.

Johnny B

[clive]

n5 for me too

[Rob Harknett]

This is the Matchless entry in my 1971 Champion spark plug catalogue. Bruce.

Well I'm amazed, my faulty memory was spot on with N5 for ally head single. But it has been stated the bikes are not that fussy. As long as it fits in the hole, the thread length is correct and its heat range is about average.

[56G80S]

"the thread length is correct"

Echo that.

Johnny B